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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just replaced front brakes about a month ago. Pulled boat to the lake yesterday and about half way there it started pulling hard to the right when I hit the brakes, when I would let off it would pull real hard to the left. When I got to the lake my brakes were on fire, fun fun. My question is, do you think it is just the caliper or could it also be the brake line? I'm not very good at diagnosing brake problems so any help would be appreciated. I need to get these fixed correctly this time. Also, my pedal has always felt spongy. I have replaced the booster when I bought the RC a couple years ago, didn't help so I just figured that it was the way they were suppose to be. I know it isn't much of a comparison but the brakes on my d-350 aren't this way and the brakes on my old w-150 weren't spongy either. I don't want to just start replacing stuff, but like I said I'm not any good at diagnosing brakes, I can replace parts correctly.

Thanks, Dustin
 

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I've seen, and been victim to, the rubber lines collapsing internally and essentially creating a one-way system that doesn't always allow the calipers to unload, causing them to drag, pull, and heat up. Could be something to look into depending on the age of yours.
 

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Going with the odds I would suspect a hanging caliper.  It is not uncommon, especially on an older vehicle.  Fluid contamination can also cause this (i.e. wrong fluid added).  If the rubber boots on the bottom of your brake fluid caps are swollen way more than normal size, you will need to replace every rubber part in the entire brake system.  The fluid should look like it just came out of the bottle.  If the fluid is bad, you might be looking at a master cylinder too.

Brake fires are a serious thing because they are extremely hot.  They can easily get hot enough to ruin the temper of bolts and other steel parts.  The least you need to do is rebuild the calipers (change all hardware), change the fluid (front and back), replace the front brake hoses (inspect the rest), inspect/replace pads, rotors and ball joints, repack the wheel bearings and replace the grease seals.  Cast iron can take a lot more heat than steel, but if the knuckle shows signs of heat damage replace it.  After all that you can see if the problem still exists.   

That may seam like throwing parts at it but believe me, you don't want to mess around after brake parts have gotten that hot.




 

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the best way to tell is pop a bleeder / if you pop it and the caliper releases its the rubber hose / if it stays locked its the caliper
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, Thanks for the help. This weekend I finally had a chance to do the brakes on my RC. I went completely thru the front, new calipers, new brake lines, turned rotors, new pads, new bearings, races, and seals,  also did the back brakes. Bleed them forever, ran thru a quart of brake fluid trying to bleed them. My problem is that my pedal is spongy, I can mash the pedal all the way to the floor and the brakes will not lock up. Am I trying to get my RC to do something that is impossible. They just don't seem to be correct. Any more insight would be great.

Thanks.
 

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were you getting good pressure at the rear bleeder ?
sounds to me like you may have air in the master or it is bypassing internally
you can try bleeding the master and see if the pedal improves
 

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RWAL cylinder
 
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