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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new to this truck... it was running great but has gone down hill quickly. It started with difficult starting after the truck sat for more than a couple days. I thought I had a fuel problem, so I replaced a rotted supply line and fuel filter. I checked the fuel pressure, and it's good now. But still no go... I don't have a noid tester for the injectors... any ideas if there is another way to test it? Multi meter? The electrical system seems to have see better days. There were corroded butt splices, which I replaced to reduce voltage drop. I checked all the connectors and added dielectric grease. I checked the coil... it seemed ok, but really old, so I swapped it out for a new one, new wires. I checked the voltage... I got 12 volts at the pos terminal of the coil only for a second when the key was first turned. then a very low voltage after that while cranking. I tried jumping 12 volts to coil while cranking, but still no go. I'm not sure the injectors are delivering fuel or what's going on with the voltage to the coil. It seems to be a computer problem. I did get codes out of the computer... but they were hard to read. I got 3 3 3 2 3 7 5 5 ... not sure if it was 33 32 37 or something different. 

Does anyone have any ideas? Where should I look next?

Thanks
Steve
 
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32, {three slow/two fast blinks} egr solenoid circuit, 33 a/c clutch circuit, 37, torque converter clutch circuit, 55, end of message.

Need more info. Spray at the injectors? Little gas in the TB make it start? Good hot fire at the plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So after reading about other people's problems... I thought it was the hall effect sensor in the distributor. I took it apart, and the contacts on the distributor itself were rusty. I cleaned them, replaced the hall effect and the truck ran great!!! Well, only for about 15 mins... then it died again. It appears that it's the commuter killing the ignition. It has good fuel pressure 14-15 psi, and good spark at times. Watching a multi meter connected to the pos on the coil, shows it will run and fire when 12 volts is present... but that's the problem. Sometimes it's there and sometimes it's not?? I was under the impression the hall effect is magnetic, so a little rust on the position indicator tabs within the distributor shouldn't really be a problem... or would it??? Do I need a new distributor altogether? Or would you look at another sensor as being a culprit??

Thanks
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Guys,

I was able to figure it out... it turned out that it was just the hall effect sensor in the distributor. After I installed the new, it ran for a little while and then stopped and was starting and stopping irregularly. It turns out I was a total rookie and the new hall effect wire rubbed up against the cap post as it was spinning. That's why it worked for a couple mins, until the insulation wore thru and it shorted to ground. I patched the wire, secured it better and it's running perfect again.

Thanks
Steve
 

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Good news then!  Welcome to the site.

Very small mistake on your part, I've done waaaay dumber than that!


Cheers


Chris
 
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