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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need a source and/or part number for the 2 relays mounted together on the black bracket located on the inside of the drivers side fender wall.  They are 5 pin, and I believe they are the ignition/fuel pump relays.
 

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yup drive to an auto parts store , unplug one , walk in hand it to the counter person and as for "one of these " ...  ;D
 

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dodge82273 said:
yup drive to an auto parts store , unplug one , walk in hand it to the counter person and as for "one of these " ... ;D
That will never work in 99% of the parts stores these days.They still have to ask for the make, model, year, engine size, tranny type,AC, or non AC, rear end ratio, power or manual locks, tinted or non tinted windows, bias ply, or radial tires, Then they will ask what the relay is for, and they will click on the wrong one, and have to start all over again.

JohnB said:
I need a source and/or part number for the 2 relays mounted together on the black bracket located on the inside of the drivers side fender wall. They are 5 pin, and I believe they are the ignition/fuel pump relays.
Are you sure yours are bad? not common for them both to give issues.
 

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I'm still in the "country" so for here that still works the counter guy has done it by the computer often enough so he knows the part # of many standard items and where they are in the store ...... even fuses  LOL
 

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I usually look up what I want online, then print out the list and take it in. Irritates the hell out of me when they still have to ask all the vehicle info.
 

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I used to have a 90 Jeep Cherokee, with a Ford Explorer 8.8 rear axle, early Bronco Dana 44 front axle, modified mounts for 90's Dakota shocks, plus a bunch more modified stuff.  Imagine the fun I had with the countrer guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I replaced them.  I used to have a couple old ones laying around, and cleaning out the garage, pitched them. 
I still had one occurrence after replacing them, where I would crank, but not start.  I was at the airport Chrstmas Eve in the rain, so I didn't have time to diagnose.  In the past, I used to tap the relays with a screwdriver, and more often than not, it would start right up.  I only drive the truck a couple times a week, and it has done this 4-5 times over the last 6 months.  I am looking at replacing the pickup in the distributor, I have had these fail in the past and do the same thing.  It only does this when it is cold, never after it warms up/restarts.  Any ideas? vs throwing more parts at it?
 

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could always just upgrade to the newer style relays when you have an issue. i know rockauto is showing relays for these things costing anywhere from $10-50 and autoparts store usually want more than that rockauto for most stuff. bosch style relays can be picked up for $5-10 new or less if you don't mind picking them up used at auto recyclers. the bosch style ones are nicer just for the fact you can pop the hood on almost any newer vehicle and fine one if you needed it.
 

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The hall effect pickup inside the distributor is the only one I have had issues with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If the HAL pickup in the distributor is intermittent, will it still have an error code? or if it starts, does it clear it?
 

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No, the hall effect can be totally bad, and still not throw a code.  It is the main cause of a no start condition, that does not give a code. And it does go out more then most other parts. If you can, change it with the dizzy on the engine, or carefully mark the exact position, so you can get it back in the same position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the advice.  I changed the cap, rotar, and HAL sensor.  They were 10 years old when I check my records.  The rotar tip seems to be very loose, and the rivet that holds it was all corroded.  No problems so far.
 
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