Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 20 of 53 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for suggestions on a 1988 Royal SE Ramcharger my son bought yesterday.

The Ramcharger will not start and we believe we've narrowed it down to the fuel pump in the tank. I jumped across the red to the dark green w/black chaser wires at the fuel pump relay on the inner fender well and got nothing. Is there a definitive way to test the pump? No fuel when the key is in the run position or while cranking. Air pressure through the lines shows them to be open and clear.

Is this the correct in-tank fuel pump for a 1988 TBI?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/precision-fuel-pumps-4602/fuel---emissions-16775/fuel-pumps-tanks-16472/fuel-pump-strainer-16843/fuel-pump-12322/83db8e3f0135/precision-fuel-pump/e16034/4615459/1988/dodge/ramcharger?q=Fuel+pump&pos=1
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
if you're sending power to the pump and you're not getting fuel, that's the test. In theory you could have a wire break, so inspect along the frame for that. However, pumps fail often enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,637 Posts
If you got to get a pump, do yourself a favor and get a walbro pump!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,361 Posts
Agree with Jeffy, invest the bucks in a good pump. 

That oreilly pump looks like the right one but dont use that brand

definitive way to test the pump is test for 12 volts when the asd relay kicks it some juice the first 2 seconds after key is turned.  DO NOT probe thru the insulation of the wire.  Get a paperclip and use that thru the connection. Probably need a 2nd set of hands.

Coming from experience, its usually the pump- likely a old filter too.

You're likely finding out first hand why to use the expensive pumps- the cheap ones fail outright.  The good ones lose pressure slowly, but you're still mobile.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,500 Posts
there is a ground to the frame that could have failed , but that would be the only other "thing" to check .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry I didn’t get back to this sooner.  We dropped the tank to clean the rotten gas out and tested the pump.  It was toast!  It was so full of sediment it was caked inside the pick-up inlet.  New pump and new gas and we tried starting it again.  The driver side injector worked but the passenger side was plugged solid.  We pulled the entire unit off and thoroughly cleaned it and got the other injector to spray.  Both spray like a spray spirt when the key is in the run position and both spray a nice looking pattern when in the start (cranking) position.  We have what appears to be a strong spark at every plug, the timing looks to be dead on but it will not start.  It tries to start and ignites now and again but will not start!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
check fuel pressure. might not be enough (regulator).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,500 Posts
yep , regulator may be clogged as well , also check a plug , if its wet ( flooded ) know that putting your foot to the floor , then cranking it tells the pcm to shut OFF the fuel , it's flooded , same as you'd do with a carb ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Guys, I pulled the regulator and it was clean and held vacuum.  It looks pretty new too.  I check compression and the range is 110 to 135.  The plugs are not really dirt, oily or wet.  I put my brand new coil on it from my 1984 and still no start.  It wants to as we get a few close starts.

So there we are.  Any other suggestions?  TIA

ETA: it is showing one trouble code; 37 but that comes back to the lock up torque converter.  We’re just ignoring that.  I’ll pull the distributor cap and check the Hall’s Effect sometime today if I can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31,877 Posts
gotta ask did you change the fuel filter [ it was not mentioned] a motor only needs 3 things 1st is air [its a given unless yer under water] and fuel and spark , you have all those so now its a mechanically problem , if it sat the cylinders are DRY = pull all plugs and squirt some oil in there , check compression while plugs are out [ with oil ] while plugs are out and motor easy to spin check cam - crank timing = TDC with Dist rotor position , also while plugs are out spin motor over with starter to see if it builds OIL pressure = no oil pressure No valve lift
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
We did not change the fuel filter. I blew through the lines and got no resistance. We were just trying to start it to check it out. We have no plans to drive yet.

Yes, correct pump, same as what we took out. I'll check psi on it also.

We weren't really looking to getting real deep into this and as a matter of fact bought it for parts. It is in such great shape, better than all of them by a long shot, that we decided to get it running and not tear it apart.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
johnnycashjunkie said:
Yeah, we pulled the distributor yesterday and confirmed that the timing is dead on. Pulled the Hall's Effect and inspected it but did not test it. Internet service out here was particularly bad and we couldn't find how to test it. We did use 300 grit sand paper and cleaned it up between the magnet and pick up.

We tested the fuel pressure and it shows a strong 15psi while cranking. Not real sure where to go from here but I'll keep whittling away on it.

We spent most of the day working on rebuilding the front and rear ends on the 1993 Canyon Sport. Lots of projects! :D
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
So you have fuel, air, spark, and correct timing? Next is test compression.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ToxicDoc said:
So you have fuel, air, spark, and correct timing? Next is test compression.
Already did that. It ranges between 110 and 135. :(
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
wow. alright, last thought I have is check for plugged cat. I can't think of anything else after that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sadly, my son left for New York this morning so getting it started isn't as pressing as it was. I'll figure it out.

ToxicDoc said:
wow. alright, last thought I have is check for plugged cat. I can't think of anything else after that.
Ive never seen a plugged catalytic converter keep an engine from starting. Staying running enough to drive it but never keep it from starting.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,325 Posts
Broncowilly said:
Sadly, my son left for New York this morning so getting it started isn't as pressing as it was. I'll figure it out.

Ive never seen a plugged catalytic converter keep an engine from starting. Staying running enough to drive it but never keep it from starting.
I understand, but what's left?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I need to test the Hall effect pick-up since all I did was lean it.  Possibly change the coil. 
 
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top