[falc]

Hello everyone..great site...Quick question..do you have to have special tools to do a ball joint job, when u have a vaccum operated 4x4 shifter on the axel tube?..the manual isnt clear..just Im sure u have to remove the shift fork??right??
then seperate the spindle etc?? anything i might not be getting??

Falc
Thx All

 

[K.C.]

Don't have to remove any of the shift fork. Remove wheels , hubs(need a special socket for the wheel bearing nuts), spindles, axles. Then you will need a BIG hammer, snapring pliers, and a special socket for the upper ball joint preload sleeve. You can then take the knuckles in to the shop and have the new ball joints pressed in (unless you have a press)

 

[Dodge 85 RC]

When I did my ball joints I didn't use any special tools other than a big tuning fork. But when you do them do them all and don't get the cheap ones. I only did the lower ones and I bought the cheap ones. I expect to be doing them again shortly after the lift and 35's wear them out.

 

[cooper30]

To do ball joints:

1)Take tire off
2)Take brake caliper off (hang it somewhere with a coat hanger, you don't have to undo the hose from it.)
3)Remove dust cap on hub.
4)Remove snap ring and associated items to get access to spindle nut.
5)Using a 4-prong spindle nut socket loosen and remove spindle nut.(I stick a screwdriver into the edge of the rotor and let it push against the caliper adaptor so the hub won't turn)
6)Remove retaining washer (try a pair of needle nose to get it.)
7)Remove inner nut with 4 prong socket (it should be loose enough to turn by hand).
8]Remove the hub/rotor assembly (the outer wheel bearing will come out when do this)
9)Remove the brake caliper adaptor.
10)Remove the 6 nuts holding the spindle on (you'll need to buy 6 new ones because they are nylock (torque-retaining).
11)Remove the spindle--this can be a pita. Use a soft mallet to loosen it. What ever you do, DO NOT use a metal hammer on the bearing surfaces (the shiny parts). I have used a short length of 2x4 and a sledge in the past.
12)Carefully pull axle shaft out (there's a seal in there). Check and replace u-joint as needed.
13)Disconnect the tie rod end at the knuckle. (on the driver's side disconnect the drag link at the steering arm.)
14)On the driver's side, remove 3 nuts on steering arm and remove steering arm. It may take a while. Use lots of PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrate). I used a short sledge to get mine off the first time. Use Anti-Sieze when installing (use it on everything)
15)Remove cotter pins and loosen nuts on ball joints. Leave the nuts on, just very loose. This is so the knuckle won't fall on your toe or the ground when you loosen the ball joints from the yoke.
16)Use a pickle fork to break loose the ball joints.
17)After the knuckle is loose, remove the nuts on the ball joints all the way and remove knuckle.
1You need to unscrew and remove the sleeve from the top hole in the yoke (where the threaded part of the upper ball joint went through). There is a tool for this which is important for installation. It's a ball joint spanner wrench available at NAPA mfg OTC, p/n 7080.
19)Remove snap ring from bottom of the lower ball joint.
20)If you have a ball joint press, remove the ball joints from the knuckle and press new ones in. If you don't have the press, just take the knuckle to a garage and have it done.
21)Reassemble everything.

A few notes on re-assembly:

-Thread the sleeve for the upper ball joint in until there's a couple of threads showing. Then put the knuckle in (with new ball joints). Put the nut on the lower ball joint and tighten to 80 ft/lbs. Now torque the sleeve to 40 ft/lbs. Now put the nut on the upper ball joint and torque to 100 ft/lbs.
-Use new cotter pins on all castellated nuts
-Anti-Sieze!!!
-Completely clean all wheel bearing (inner and outer), inspect bearings and races, replace as necessary. Repack bearings with new grease. (ALL old grease must be gone. Try brake cleaner)
-To access inner wheel bearing, pry seal out of rotor. Use a new seal when putting everything back together.
-Replace any worn parts while you have everything apart.
-When installing the axle shafts, be careful because there are seals inside the axle tubes that you can knock loose. (Some people go ahead and replace those at this time)

Various torque values*
-Tie rod to knuckle nut-45 ft/lbs
-Steering arm nuts-90 ft/lbs
-drag link to steering knuckle-60 ft/lbs
-Spindle nuts-25-35 ft/lbs (use new ones)

-Spindle nut/wheel bearing procedure and torque is HERE

*All torque values came from a Factory Service Manual.

Hope I didn't leave anything out. I'll check it to make sure...and so will other people.

Ted

 

[StandardByker88]

im assuming this is for 4wd applications. right?

 

[cooper30]

im assuming this is for 4wd applications. right?

I figured it was cause he mentioned the vaccum crap on the axle tube.

Ted

 

[T140]

To do ball joints:

1)Take tire off
2)Take brake caliper off (hang it somewhere with a coat hanger, you don't have to undo the hose from it.)
3)Remove dust cap on hub.
4)Remove snap ring and associated items to get access to spindle nut.
5)Using a 4-prong spindle nut socket loosen and remove spindle nut.(I stick a screwdriver into the edge of the rotor and let it push against the caliper adaptor so the hub won't turn)
6)Remove retaining washer (try a pair of needle nose to get it.)
7)Remove inner nut with 4 prong socket (it should be loose enough to turn by hand).
8]Remove the hub/rotor assembly (the outer wheel bearing will come out when do this)
9)Remove the brake caliper adaptor.
10)Remove the 6 nuts holding the spindle on (you'll need to buy 6 new ones because they are nylock (torque-retaining).
11)Remove the spindle--this can be a pita. Use a soft mallet to loosen it. What ever you do, DO NOT use a metal hammer on the bearing surfaces (the shiny parts). I have used a short length of 2x4 and a sledge in the past.
12)Carefully pull axle shaft out (there's a seal in there). Check and replace u-joint as needed.
13)Disconnect the tie rod end at the knuckle. (on the driver's side disconnect the drag link at the steering arm.)
14)On the driver's side, remove 3 nuts on steering arm and remove steering arm. It may take a while. Use lots of PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrate). I used a short sledge to get mine off the first time. Use Anti-Sieze when installing (use it on everything)
15)Remove cotter pins and loosen nuts on ball joints. Leave the nuts on, just very loose. This is so the knuckle won't fall on your toe or the ground when you loosen the ball joints from the yoke.
16)Use a pickle fork to break loose the ball joints.
17)After the knuckle is loose, remove the nuts on the ball joints all the way and remove knuckle.
1You need to unscrew and remove the sleeve from the top hole in the yoke (where the threaded part of the upper ball joint went through). There is a tool for this which is important for installation. It's a ball joint spanner wrench available at NAPA mfg OTC, p/n 7080.
19)Remove snap ring from bottom of the lower ball joint.
20)If you have a ball joint press, remove the ball joints from the knuckle and press new ones in. If you don't have the press, just take the knuckle to a garage and have it done.
21)Reassemble everything.

A few notes on re-assembly:

-Thread the sleeve for the upper ball joint in until there's a couple of threads showing. Then put the knuckle in (with new ball joints). Put the nut on the lower ball joint and tighten to 80 ft/lbs. Now torque the sleeve to 40 ft/lbs. Now put the nut on the upper ball joint and torque to 100 ft/lbs.
-Use new cotter pins on all castellated nuts
-Anti-Sieze!!!
-Completely clean all wheel bearing (inner and outer), inspect bearings and races, replace as necessary. Repack bearings with new grease. (ALL old grease must be gone. Try brake cleaner)
-To access inner wheel bearing, pry seal out of rotor. Use a new seal when putting everything back together.
-Replace any worn parts while you have everything apart.
-When installing the axle shafts, be careful because there are seals inside the axle tubes that you can knock loose. (Some people go ahead and replace those at this time)

Various torque values*
-Tie rod to knuckle nut-45 ft/lbs
-Steering arm nuts-90 ft/lbs
-drag link to steering knuckle-60 ft/lbs
-Spindle nuts-25-35 ft/lbs (use new ones)

-Spindle nut/wheel bearing procedure and torque is HERE

*All torque values came from a Factory Service Manual.

Hope I didn't leave anything out. I'll check it to make sure...and so will other people.

Ted

Best description I have seen on the forum.

Sent from my 2PZC5 using Tapatalk

 

[J10Mike]

Here is what I used to replace the ball joints on my D44. It's for a Wagoneer D44. But, the ball joints and torque specifications should be the same or similar. Mike

 

[T140]

Here is what I used to replace the ball joints on my D44. It's for a Wagoneer D44. But, the ball joints and torque specifications should be the same or similar. Mike

Good illustration. Thanks

Sent from my 2PZC5 using Tapatalk

 

[4x4 440]

Install a Dana 60F and be done with ball joints.

 

[T140]

Here is what I used to replace the ball joints on my D44. It's for a Wagoneer D44. But, the ball joints and torque specifications should be the same or similar. Mike

Pictures of knuckle in the vise was very helpful today. PITA to get steering knuckle off, finally had to heat the upper and kept tapping with a bfh. U joints separated easily, but then I found the Napa computer reader gave me the wrong u joints and axle seal. So all work stopped until the morning, had no vehicle to exchange parts.
Definitely using antiseize on reassembly.

Sent from my 2PZC5 using Tapatalk

 

[J10Mike]

Pictures of knuckle in the vise was very helpful today. PITA to get steering knuckle off, finally had to heat the upper and kept tapping with a bfh. U joints separated easily, but then I found the Napa computer reader gave me the wrong u joints and axle seal. So all work stopped until the morning, had no vehicle to exchange parts.
Definitely using antiseize on reassembly.

Sent from my 2PZC5 using Tapatalk

Man, I hate when other's mistakes ruin a day. On that ball joint doc I posted, I didn't write that. I found it online and used it to do the ball joints in my D44. It came in handy for me.

 

[JayDee]

On copper 30's number 11 about removing the spindle , I used a lot of liquid wrench around the outside, and instead of hitting it with a soft hammer, I threaded back on the spindle the thick nut with the 4 slots you removed from inside the housing, ..when removing the rotor... with the special 4 lug socket, making sure it was more than all threads completely threaded on using my fingers, so as to not strip the threads in case you didn't screw it on past where all threads are uengaged,... then I put a puller jaws on the outside of 4 slotted nut, and the threaded champfered end on the end of axle , as it has a place for the pullers threaded champfer'd end , to fit in the axle champfer hole on the end (in the center). Carefully, I began to tighten the puller , meanwhile i had a tiny ballpeen hammer, I put the face of... on the outside radius of the spindle closest to the hub, and hit that on the ballpeen end with a larger flat of the bigger hammer going around the outside a few times, and shooting more liquid wrench on it just around the outside. I kept tightening the puller, slowly, and watched for movement , and as it started to pull the spindle, I added more LW, in the crack that opened, and tapped it around the outside as previously mentioned again....as I did NOT need to hit it anywhere else, as the puller pulled it straight off, and it was really rusty, but now soaked inside with liquid wrench. I used an old KD small 2 jaw puller, but you could use a 3 jaw. Hoped this might help others with tight spindles that were rusty, just go slow, and tap it all around the outside edge that is maybe 3/8 of an inch step ..out from the hub, while spraying it again...and tapping it on the outside edge, you could use a brass drift, or whatever if you dont have a tiny balpeen....as once it budges, you have space to squirt in more liquid wrench. Then it should not be a PITA.( PAIN IN THE ASS) and will slowly pull off. IT WORKED FOR ME..... MIGHT WORK FOR YOU. Just thought I would mention it.

 

[DODGEBOYS]

yo JayDee

howdy / please refrain from posting in a post thats older than a year old , a post this OLD [ 18 and 4 years ] the members are either GONE or DEAD , the older posts are to be used as "reference" Only so you can start a NEW post about the same subject . thanks for your cooperation on this matter

also on a post this old click the users Name too see when they where here last to verify weather or not they will answer you [ gone or dead ]

also you have had to seen the WARNING at the bottom of the post telling you NOT to post but make a new one [ below ]

 

[JayDee]

Thanks for mentioning that....but I didn't expect any response being so old, as I added my response for future viewers doing the same job for the 1st time , not to revive the old thread. Maybe the verbadge needs revised as, I didn't take it as written, to be as blunt ,saying NOT to post, I read the notice as worded to say : please CONSIDER creating a new thread , but will take notice in the future to start a new thread due to my mis-interpretation.
On the part asking for the truck info , to cut down on the BS, what is that about ? Just asking.
Glad to be here, I don't own the 83 ramcharger, I am merely helping out a friend , fixing it for free, as they are disabled and I donate work to assist low income people occasionally who can't afford repairs.... although it is a 4WD Royal SE w/318. (Dana 44 front.) Thanks for your clarification and reply.

 

[DODGEBOYS]

On the part asking for the truck info , to cut down on the BS, what is that about ? Just asking.

without the SIG vehicle info people post asking for help but DON'T put any vehicle info / like " my motor don't crank can you help " like what year YUGO do you drive so l can help you , l,ll post the SIG spiel below
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

howdy / please fill out your SIG that shows at the bottom of your posts with your complete truck info = it cuts down on the BS and you recieve better answers because members dont hafta guess which year Toyota you drive

NOTE / if you dont know howto fill out your SIG just ask me or a Mod for help

 

[CADFather]

Dean,
Is it not possible to lock these older reference posts after say a six month window of no new information coming up? That way they are still viewable just no longer active to be posted in per se. When they get locked up the recommendation to make a new post can be added to either the front or back for anyone with questions on how to work on their Prius.

 

[DODGEBOYS]

the whole RCC staff has hashed this over , half want them locked and the "owners" want them open , so they stay open to drag the dead back to life [ so to speak ]

 

[CADFather]

the whole RCC staff has hashed this over , half want them locked and the "owners" want them open , so they stay open to drag the dead back to life [ so to speak ]

Wow, That sounds very counter-intuitive on the part of the owners, if you were to ask me and well no one has. It also goes against what I have personally seen on the other boards that VS owns, such as Gunboards and RSWarrior.com, they lock the older threads to be used for reference and allow posting a new thread for any new questions that arise concerning the issue. Maybe the handlers from VS for this site aren't familiar with their own company practices or vice versa. Honestly, it really doesn't surprise me, since they only seem to care about the membership numbers and cashing in on the advert. checks. At any rate it was just a suggestion from an end user and it doesn't matter to me one way or another. Long live the necro-thread.

CAD

 

[440 4spd Power Ram]

As a moderator on another site that doesn't have a necropost policy I generally lock any old post that gets brought back to life.