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Hello everyone..great site...Quick question..do you have to have special tools to do a ball joint job, when u have a vaccum operated 4x4 shifter on the axel tube?..the manual isnt clear..just Im sure u have to remove the shift fork??right??
then seperate the spindle etc?? anything i might not be getting??

Falc
Thx All
 

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Don't have to remove any of the shift fork. Remove wheels , hubs(need a special socket for the wheel bearing nuts), spindles, axles. Then you will need a BIG hammer, snapring pliers, and a special socket for the upper ball joint preload sleeve. You can then take the knuckles in to the shop and have the new ball joints pressed in (unless you have a press)
 

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When I did my ball joints I didn't use any special tools other than a big tuning fork. But when you do them do them all and don't get the cheap ones. I only did the lower ones and I bought the cheap ones. I expect to be doing them again shortly after the lift and 35's wear them out.
 

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To do ball joints:

1)Take tire off
2)Take brake caliper off (hang it somewhere with a coat hanger, you don't have to undo the hose from it.)
3)Remove dust cap on hub.
4)Remove snap ring and associated items to get access to spindle nut.
5)Using a 4-prong spindle nut socket loosen and remove spindle nut.(I stick a screwdriver into the edge of the rotor and let it push against the caliper adaptor so the hub won't turn)
6)Remove retaining washer (try a pair of needle nose to get it.)
7)Remove inner nut with 4 prong socket (it should be loose enough to turn by hand).
8]Remove the hub/rotor assembly (the outer wheel bearing will come out when do this)
9)Remove the brake caliper adaptor.
10)Remove the 6 nuts holding the spindle on (you'll need to buy 6 new ones because they are nylock (torque-retaining).
11)Remove the spindle--this can be a pita. Use a soft mallet to loosen it. What ever you do, DO NOT use a metal hammer on the bearing surfaces (the shiny parts). I have used a short length of 2x4 and a sledge in the past.
12)Carefully pull axle shaft out (there's a seal in there). Check and replace u-joint as needed.
13)Disconnect the tie rod end at the knuckle. (on the driver's side disconnect the drag link at the steering arm.)
14)On the driver's side, remove 3 nuts on steering arm and remove steering arm. It may take a while. Use lots of PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrate). I used a short sledge to get mine off the first time. Use Anti-Sieze when installing (use it on everything)
15)Remove cotter pins and loosen nuts on ball joints. Leave the nuts on, just very loose. This is so the knuckle won't fall on your toe or the ground when you loosen the ball joints from the yoke.
16)Use a pickle fork to break loose the ball joints.
17)After the knuckle is loose, remove the nuts on the ball joints all the way and remove knuckle.
18)You need to unscrew and remove the sleeve from the top hole in the yoke (where the threaded part of the upper ball joint went through). There is a tool for this which is important for installation. It's a ball joint spanner wrench available at NAPA mfg OTC, p/n 7080.
19)Remove snap ring from bottom of the lower ball joint.
20)If you have a ball joint press, remove the ball joints from the knuckle and press new ones in. If you don't have the press, just take the knuckle to a garage and have it done.
21)Reassemble everything. ;D

A few notes on re-assembly:

-Thread the sleeve for the upper ball joint in until there's a couple of threads showing. Then put the knuckle in (with new ball joints). Put the nut on the lower ball joint and tighten to 80 ft/lbs. Now torque the sleeve to 40 ft/lbs. Now put the nut on the upper ball joint and torque to 100 ft/lbs.
-Use new cotter pins on all castellated nuts
-Anti-Sieze!!!
-Completely clean all wheel bearing (inner and outer), inspect bearings and races, replace as necessary. Repack bearings with new grease. (ALL old grease must be gone. Try brake cleaner)
-To access inner wheel bearing, pry seal out of rotor. Use a new seal when putting everything back together.
-Replace any worn parts while you have everything apart.
-When installing the axle shafts, be careful because there are seals inside the axle tubes that you can knock loose. (Some people go ahead and replace those at this time)

Various torque values*
-Tie rod to knuckle nut-45 ft/lbs
-Steering arm nuts-90 ft/lbs
-drag link to steering knuckle-60 ft/lbs
-Spindle nuts-25-35 ft/lbs (use new ones)

-Spindle nut/wheel bearing procedure and torque is HERE

*All torque values came from a Factory Service Manual.

Hope I didn't leave anything out. I'll check it to make sure...and so will other people. ;) :)

Ted
 

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im assuming this is for 4wd applications. right?
 

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cooper30 said:
To do ball joints:

1)Take tire off
2)Take brake caliper off (hang it somewhere with a coat hanger, you don't have to undo the hose from it.)
3)Remove dust cap on hub.
4)Remove snap ring and associated items to get access to spindle nut.
5)Using a 4-prong spindle nut socket loosen and remove spindle nut.(I stick a screwdriver into the edge of the rotor and let it push against the caliper adaptor so the hub won't turn)
6)Remove retaining washer (try a pair of needle nose to get it.)
7)Remove inner nut with 4 prong socket (it should be loose enough to turn by hand).
8]Remove the hub/rotor assembly (the outer wheel bearing will come out when do this)
9)Remove the brake caliper adaptor.
10)Remove the 6 nuts holding the spindle on (you'll need to buy 6 new ones because they are nylock (torque-retaining).
11)Remove the spindle--this can be a pita. Use a soft mallet to loosen it. What ever you do, DO NOT use a metal hammer on the bearing surfaces (the shiny parts). I have used a short length of 2x4 and a sledge in the past.
12)Carefully pull axle shaft out (there's a seal in there). Check and replace u-joint as needed.
13)Disconnect the tie rod end at the knuckle. (on the driver's side disconnect the drag link at the steering arm.)
14)On the driver's side, remove 3 nuts on steering arm and remove steering arm. It may take a while. Use lots of PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrate). I used a short sledge to get mine off the first time. Use Anti-Sieze when installing (use it on everything)
15)Remove cotter pins and loosen nuts on ball joints. Leave the nuts on, just very loose. This is so the knuckle won't fall on your toe or the ground when you loosen the ball joints from the yoke.
16)Use a pickle fork to break loose the ball joints.
17)After the knuckle is loose, remove the nuts on the ball joints all the way and remove knuckle.
18)You need to unscrew and remove the sleeve from the top hole in the yoke (where the threaded part of the upper ball joint went through). There is a tool for this which is important for installation. It's a ball joint spanner wrench available at NAPA mfg OTC, p/n 7080.
19)Remove snap ring from bottom of the lower ball joint.
20)If you have a ball joint press, remove the ball joints from the knuckle and press new ones in. If you don't have the press, just take the knuckle to a garage and have it done.
21)Reassemble everything. ;D

A few notes on re-assembly:

-Thread the sleeve for the upper ball joint in until there's a couple of threads showing. Then put the knuckle in (with new ball joints). Put the nut on the lower ball joint and tighten to 80 ft/lbs. Now torque the sleeve to 40 ft/lbs. Now put the nut on the upper ball joint and torque to 100 ft/lbs.
-Use new cotter pins on all castellated nuts
-Anti-Sieze!!!
-Completely clean all wheel bearing (inner and outer), inspect bearings and races, replace as necessary. Repack bearings with new grease. (ALL old grease must be gone. Try brake cleaner)
-To access inner wheel bearing, pry seal out of rotor. Use a new seal when putting everything back together.
-Replace any worn parts while you have everything apart.
-When installing the axle shafts, be careful because there are seals inside the axle tubes that you can knock loose. (Some people go ahead and replace those at this time)

Various torque values*
-Tie rod to knuckle nut-45 ft/lbs
-Steering arm nuts-90 ft/lbs
-drag link to steering knuckle-60 ft/lbs
-Spindle nuts-25-35 ft/lbs (use new ones)

-Spindle nut/wheel bearing procedure and torque is HERE

*All torque values came from a Factory Service Manual.

Hope I didn't leave anything out. I'll check it to make sure...and so will other people. ;) :)

Ted
Best description I have seen on the forum.

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Here is what I used to replace the ball joints on my D44. It's for a Wagoneer D44. But, the ball joints and torque specifications should be the same or similar. Mike
 

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Install a Dana 60F and be done with ball joints.
 

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J10Mike said:
Here is what I used to replace the ball joints on my D44. It's for a Wagoneer D44. But, the ball joints and torque specifications should be the same or similar. Mike
Pictures of knuckle in the vise was very helpful today. PITA to get steering knuckle off, finally had to heat the upper and kept tapping with a bfh. U joints separated easily, but then I found the Napa computer reader gave me the wrong u joints and axle seal. So all work stopped until the morning, had no vehicle to exchange parts.
Definitely using antiseize on reassembly.

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T140 said:
Pictures of knuckle in the vise was very helpful today. PITA to get steering knuckle off, finally had to heat the upper and kept tapping with a bfh. U joints separated easily, but then I found the Napa computer reader gave me the wrong u joints and axle seal. So all work stopped until the morning, had no vehicle to exchange parts.
Definitely using antiseize on reassembly.

Sent from my 2PZC5 using Tapatalk
Man, I hate when other's mistakes ruin a day. On that ball joint doc I posted, I didn't write that. I found it online and used it to do the ball joints in my D44. It came in handy for me.
 
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