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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi! As the title says, I have a 1984 Ramcharger. The person I bought it from said the automatic tranny was blown and had previously gone through 2 others, so I figured why not just take a Sawzall to the floor and convert it to a 4 speed manual? What all do I need for it? It's got 4 wheel drive, and manual locking hubs. Also, how do I push the least amount of emissions BS and still pass emissions testing in Idaho? I've been told I can get a hollowed smog pump, but I don't know where to find one. I also want to straight pipe it legally, how do I do that? The engine it will have is either gonna be a 360 if the dude I'm buying a tranny from has the engine running or a 318 that does run from my buddy who own a Gold Duster.

Please give me a list of things I will need for it, thanks!
 

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Every state admissions are different. Some may just look to see if the smog pump is there with a belt, others stick a sniffer down the tail pipe to test. Pressurize the tank, etc. I’d leave the engine nice and dirty. Lane inspectors around on the east here don’t like the shine.

Mine just looked to see if the smog pump was attached and passed me for antique tags. I killed the cat on my truck and ran true duals with flow master 40s I believe after the fact. Another fella will know more about the tranny conversion.
 

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Tranny conversion isn't too bad but you do need a lot of parts. What is the donor tranny coming from? This can change things drastically if you are swapping transfer cases too. Also if you swap cases depending on truck set up yokes will be different on rear-ends causing more driveshaft issues.

Years matter, 80 and older with full time 4x4 will require everything from the transmission back, including drive shafts and axles since it is full time. A divorced setup from 73-74 you will need everything except axles including skid plates (in theory).

If newer than 80, you only need the transmission be sure to get the housing over the tailshaft to input into the transfer.

No matter what year you swap you need pedals, all linkage, and you must ground the neutral safety switch either through a clutch set up or a solid ground.

That is the basics.....I have swapped 1 2wd and 1 4wd thus far and it isn't terrible but it requires proper research and thought.

Neil
 

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I've swapped a manual into an 84 suburban, and almost done with a 5spd in an 84 RC 2wd.

You might not need to hack the floor much. Most RC's had the high-hump tunnel. More like cutting a couple nice holes.

Hardest item to get will likely be the clutch pedal. You have to decide if you want stock linkage, or newer hydraulic... and I believe the differences include the bellhousing.

I think you can make a similar-year NP435 or later nv4500 fit just the same. Both can be 23 spline just like your auto, for fitting your tcase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tranny conversion isn't too bad but you do need a lot of parts. What is the donor tranny coming from? This can change things drastically if you are swapping transfer cases too. Also if you swap cases depending on truck set up yokes will be different on rear-ends causing more driveshaft issues.

Years matter, 80 and older with full time 4x4 will require everything from the transmission back, including drive shafts and axles since it is full time. A divorced setup from 73-74 you will need everything except axles including skid plates (in theory).

If newer than 80, you only need the transmission be sure to get the housing over the tailshaft to input into the transfer.

No matter what year you swap you need pedals, all linkage, and you must ground the neutral safety switch either through a clutch set up or a solid ground.

That is the basics.....I have swapped 1 2wd and 1 4wd thus far and it isn't terrible but it requires proper research and thought.

Neil
Would it be worth getting a manual steering column so I don't have to do all the work to make a manual conversion work on an automatic column?
 

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Column is a minor detail. There is no work to leave the auto one there.
 

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Would it be worth getting a manual steering column so I don't have to do all the work to make a manual conversion work on an automatic column?
you pop the pin out of the steering column shifter and NOW its a manual column
 
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Agreed depends if you don't want it there. I have one with a manual and one with an auto column. As dodgeboys said easy to use the auto column with the pin removal. As u2slow said no work involved when not changing it. If you do change it you may have wiring issues to contend if the years are not identical or in a certain range with options.

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Whats a fair buying price for one of these guys with no motor, a bad tranny, steering that needs new everything, an interior that's really rough after being used as storage for god knows how long, and needs a windshield/tint peeled off the other windows? My coworker is trying to sell it to me for 1,000 but I want to talk him down to 500-600
 

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I’d say $500 bucks, $750-1000 if the interior was good with the trim pieces in contact and other salvageable parts. Just my opinion though. Gotta factor in tow costs if you don’t have a tow rig and if you wanna see the big hunk of metal on your property that doesn’t move.
 

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Whats a fair buying price for one of these guys with no motor, a bad tranny, steering that needs new everything, an interior that's really rough after being used as storage for god knows how long, and needs a windshield/tint peeled off the other windows? My coworker is trying to sell it to me for 1,000 but I want to talk him down to 500-600
My '90 4x4 was $500 - rusty and high miles, but drove it home. My '84 2wd was sitting in the weeds, smashed rear quarter window - otherwise complete; $200 plus the tow home.
 
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Whats a fair buying price for one of these guys with no motor, a bad tranny, steering that needs new everything, an interior that's really rough after being used as storage for god knows how long, and needs a windshield/tint peeled off the other windows? My coworker is trying to sell it to me for 1,000 but I want to talk him down to 500-600
Fair buying price is what you are willing to pay, Fair selling price is what your willing to let it go. Old dodge owners are notoriously cheap and prices for old trucks is climbing. $200-$300 used to be the expected price of an unloved truck. $500 used to be a good price to buy solid shell with mininum rust. $700-900 for a runner. Now finding anything between $500-$1000 requires dedication.
 
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500 bucks on Facebook if I remember right for this beauty. She just needed a buff and a good hand wax
617792
 

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500 bucks on Facebook if I remember right for this beauty. She just needed a buff and a good hand wax View attachment 617792
Lots a wax and a little less buffing.....LOL.

I know trucks used to be 500 to 900 all day long about 5-10 years ago, but thanks to Facebook IMO prices are all over the place. If it don't run and everything is literally hosed why buy it? If you can salvage a transmission transfer and rear ends in truth it probably is worth a 1000 bucks. If you just need one part not so much. I bought my last with a /6, bad 904, and rotted bedsides from a boy in NC for 800. Swapped transmissions in the kids driveway and drove it home. That was bout 8 years ago though. Certain years may be worth more depending on what you are after to take off of it. I wouldn't pay more than 600 if it didn't run.

Neil
 
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If I were swapping a 4 speed in I would go for a hydraulic clutch setup, then the pedal doesn't engage when you get into a funky twist. I would buy a donor truck with everything you need. Its getting hard to find NP435 bellhousings.
 

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Whats a fair buying price for one of these guys with no motor, a bad tranny, steering that needs new everything, an interior that's really rough after being used as storage for god knows how long, and needs a windshield/tint peeled off the other windows? My coworker is trying to sell it to me for 1,000 but I want to talk him down to 500-600

l,ll sell you a running driving 86 RC for $300 bucks [ NO interior , Jimbo has it in his new RC build ]
 
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