[KG5JXO]

Ok i did some searching and I cant find what I'm looking for, perhaps because I don't know what I'm looking at. I'm rebuilding a 1985 318. I decided to go with the stock 2 barrel intake so to ebay I went, and found a 1984 intake. All is well with that except looking down through the carb bores the one on the right (i think its not in front of me)has something bolted in it. This thing is round on top and I can feel 4 holes on it. on bottom it has flats so you could put a deep well socket on it. does anyone know what this is? Also in the other bore at the bottom i can feel and probably see if i had the light a hole centered in the bore which i believe to be threaded. I assume I Need to plug this? What size plug? Also what is the thing in the right bore and should there be one in the left?

 

[ProjectPW]

That is used to distribute egr into the intake ... remove it and match it up with a pipe thread plug at your local hardware store, or make a plate to delete the egr valve. It is unnecessary unless you have to deal with an emmisions test/inspection in your state

 

[KG5JXO]

sounds good as long as its not overly important for anything. I doubt i would have to pass emmsions at any point.

 

[Elwenil]

Agreed, it is known as an Intake Jet and is basically just for metering the EGR gasses flowing to the intake stream.  Important if you are using the EGR, not important if you are deleting it.

 

[Guest]

While you are up there dealing with the intake..etc..and no need for the EGR valve... In FL there is no more emissions inspection. I had a leak where the crossover smog pipe fits into the top /rear of each exhaust manifold. I initially went to an exhaust pipe shop, you know where this is going !! $800.00 etc etc..
I found an 1980 - 318 in a salvage yard, with both exhaust manifolds, minus the smog inlet ports and an EGR block off plate. I sanded the exhause gas manifolds  surfaces, added new gaskets - bolted up the manifolds. I pulled the unneeded EGR valve cleaning that area -installed the EGR block off plate. Naturally I pulled the unneeded smog pump, it's hose -crossover pipe. Total cost about $40.00.
I also added a 500 CFM 2bbl Holley, vs the stock Holley. The 318 howls if you need it to with that 500 CFM. But I don't believe in abusing it. That 318 is a strong long lasting mill. I also add a ounce of Marvel Myatery Oil to the crankcase for top cylinder lubrication, and it conditions the oil also.  Good Luck with your project.. 

 

[Elwenil]

Alternatively you could have plugged the holes in your stock manifolds.  Headers are also an option, though more expensive, and also require the small air ports under the exhaust port in the heads to be plugged.

 

[Reed]

While you have the intake manifold off, don't forget to clean out the crossover passage so you get a heated intake.

 

[Guest]

Yea, I thought about trying to plug those holes, but that's cast iron, can't be threaded. The exhaust shop said they could not weld it.
I was not convinced, but not knowing anything about what can or can not be welded.. and concerned that whatever I did would open up eventually because of the exhaust gas, pressure etc.. I didn't have much time as it was my daily driver, and didn't like having that hot exhaust jetting out near the firewall..  I lucked out finding the stock 80 manifolds, very easy swap.. and cheap, had I not found them. I would have had to think of something.    Here in west central FL the yards used to have a decent stream of RCs or Dodge pick ups from which to pull fenders driveshafts...However over the past few years it's slowed considerably.. I roamed through a local salvage yard and picked up an aluminum finned so called turbine wheel, for $60.00, including a tire with decent tread on it, which I didn't need or want.
Would have been $40 for just the rim. But it was take it or leave it. Those turbine rims are a rare find so I didn't quibble over $20, and I have cleaned it up nicely with Aluminum Brite from NAPA, for use as a spare mounted in the inside rear cargo area..

 

[W200’78]

Yea, I thought about trying to plug those holes, but that's cast iron, can't be threaded. The exhaust shop said they could not weld it.
I was not convinced, but not knowing anything about what can or can not be welded.. and concerned that whatever I did would open up eventually because of the exhaust gas, pressure etc.. I didn't have much time as it was my daily driver, and didn't like having that hot exhaust jetting out near the firewall.. I lucked out finding the stock 80 manifolds, very easy swap.. and cheap, had I not found them. I would have had to think of something. Here in west central FL the yards used to have a decent stream of RCs or Dodge pick ups from which to pull fenders driveshafts...However over the past few years it's slowed considerably.. I roamed through a local salvage yard and picked up an aluminum finned so called turbine wheel, for $60.00, including a tire with decent tread on it, which I didn't need or want.
Would have been $40 for just the rim. But it was take it or leave it. Those turbine rims are a rare find so I didn't quibble over $20, and I have cleaned it up nicely with Aluminum Brite from NAPA, for use as a spare mounted in the inside rear cargo area..

You can tap cast iron. I'm not sure where you heard that you couldn't. I'm a machinist and done it many times over and its never given me problems. Nor have I heard anyone say it couldn't be done. You see alot of cast iron fixtures in machine shops (its a very stable material for precision work) and they usually have a grid pattern of 1/2-13 holes tapped throughout.

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[KG5JXO]

the intake I got looks like it had been cleaned up a lot. No carbon on/in it that i could find. for exhaust someone else had folded over the air tubes. since i had them and was having trouble finding a 3/4 inch tap as me and amazon are currently having a slight discussion I cut the tube off flush with the mounting plate inserted a piece of bolt that was sorta snug inside and welded. To make it look good I then ground my weld flush. I'm planning for when Texas eventually goes to smog control so a short piece of nail in the EGR vacuum line does well for now. most of the emissions equipment is now gone as this is going into my 75 so if anyone asks that's the year of the engine a well. Now that i know what the EGR jet is i decided to leave it in place as i don't see it hurting anything so long as my EGR valve is disabled. I do appreciate the help in determining that this is not some weird aftermarket thing that would be a problem once the engine is running.

 

[Guest]

" quote author=W200’78 link=topic=317273.msg3437657#msg3437657 date=1527595617] You can tap cast iron. I’m not sure where you heard that you couldn’t. I’m a machinist and done it many times over and its never given me problems. Nor have I heard anyone say it couldn’t be done"

    A machinist, a no nonsence skill... Yea, I heard, what I heard ...from some guys
at a local exhaust repair shop, I got out of there ASAP,  with my hand on my wallet.  Good info to know.. Thanks Again.. Ed K