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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys,

maybe someone already had the same issue and can advise what i need to fix..

My w200 is running only for about a second - then the engine dies. During my investigation I found out, that this is related to the ignition switch position. If i prevent the ignition switch from fully snapping back after starting with my hand, the engine keeps running. But as soon as I let it flip back, the engine dies.

I also mentioned, that now all my cockpit displays (fuel level, oil temp, ..., fuel pacer light) are dead in second ignition switch position. But in earlier times, i remember myself checking them before starting... so this could be related with the problem.

At the moment I am thinking of two possible issues.
1) series resistor has a failure and prevents engine from running after starting (during starting, this resistor is bridged isnt it?)
2)ignition switch has a failure

What do you guys think? What would you check at first? How can one check the series resisor for failure?

Sorry for my bad Englisch and thanks in advance for some reply!

Best regards
Dennis

 

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I would lean towards the Switch on that one as the gauges on mine work in the on position.
 

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your first guess is an easy to test thing . find the resistor , make a jumper wire , jump the resistor ... runs? replace the resistor ... do not leave it jumped for too long ( ok drive home ) it will eventually over heat your coil , and it will fail .
 

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1975 W100 Power Wagon Adventurer Sport 318 727 NP203 3.55
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check your resistor first if that doesn't fix it it could be switch or bulkhead connector. shouldn't be hard to bypass the switch to determine which one
 

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Rhine Valley said:
Hello guys,

maybe someone already had the same issue and can advise what i need to fix..

My w200 is running only for about a second - then the engine dies. During my investigation I found out, that this is related to the ignition switch position. If i prevent the ignition switch from fully snapping back after starting with my hand, the engine keeps running. But as soon as I let it flip back, the engine dies.

I also mentioned, that now all my cockpit displays (fuel level, oil temp, ..., fuel pacer light) are dead in second ignition switch position. But in earlier times, i remember myself checking them before starting... so this could be related with the problem.

At the moment I am thinking of two possible issues.
1) series resistor has a failure and prevents engine from running after starting (during starting, this resistor is bridged isnt it?)
2)ignition switch has a failure

What do you guys think? What would you check at first? How can one check the series resisor for failure?

Sorry for my bad Englisch and thanks in advance for some reply!

Best regards
Dennis
Text book example of a bad ignition switch. Do you have tilt steering? If you don't, there is a rod that goes down the column from the ignition lock cylinder. Find that rod and you'll follow it down to a plug and electrical assembly. I trust you're limber as it's a stinker to work under there. Either the switch is worn out or a wire is loose.
 

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dodge ignittion system used 2 coil power feeds . one was direct 12 volts in the crank position , then when you let off key power has to pass thru the resistor , coil gets about 7 volts . Called an external resistor type coil , it cannot run on 12 volt all the time or it overheats ,  if power get to the resistor but resistor is burnt out , it doesn't get to coil . jump resistor , or use a test light to "see" if the resistor has power at both ends when the key is "ON" in run spot ...  should be a bright 12 volt on one end a dimmer 7 volt at the other end , a jumper is quicker IMO. very easy test compared to the switch ,  happens commonly , and confirms a switch OR resistor problem with out much effort . ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you guys for your answers to my topic.

I just conducted your idea of building a jumper for the resistor. Unfortunatelly this did not help to solve the problem.

Now i want to check the ignition switch. "Grouch" asked if i have tilt steering. I am not sure what is meant by that. Do i need to disassemble the steering wheel to check the ignition switch?

"KG5JXO" mentioned a bulkhead connector, that should be also checked. What would you check there?

Thanks for your help,
Dennis

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Add:

the ignition switch seems to be kind of new (and not original). The bunch of wires that go along the steering column are also not old. If i would know, which one of them is responsible to send the signal for second ignition position ("run") i could easily measure if there are some volts or not.

Would that be a suitable way to check the ignition switch without disassembling it?
 

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a test light on each wire , record what it does when . did ya ever check the simple thing first ? power to and thru the resistor ? with the key in ON ?  or simply crank , it starts you hold it in crank, does it run untill you let off starter ? ( bad for starter ... don't do it too long or often) ( this test could also be key switch though )
 

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1975 W100 Power Wagon Adventurer Sport 318 727 NP203 3.55
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"KG5JXO" mentioned a bulkhead connector, that should be also checked. What would you check there?
the bulkhead connector runs through the firewall I would bypass the switch first. effectively hot wire it. unfortunately i can't find right now what each pin does. If you can find out look there otherwise trace the wiring back to the bulkhead to figure out which positions they are in then take apart the bulkhead (from engine bay side) and look for corrosion on those terminals specifically and all of them in general. If its like mine was you'l have a "that's why it doesn't work right" moment. also is yours is a 4 pin basalt resistor be sure you bypassed the correct side. Now that I'm reading more carefully you said that in the "on" position the gauges are dead? if so examine the ignition switch connector where the column meets the dash as well as the wires to that point because those should work though you are only likely to get as gas gauge reading. if that connector is good( try squeezing it together) your switch is likely bad
 
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