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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this is a cummins resto, used jungles s-box and frame box parts, drag link looks skimpish compared to my 1990 w250, id love a heavier tube with tie rod ends countering excessive weight gain, and bloating, lift should still allow straight tube, springs are close to parallel to link, maybe a 1.5" difference, it rides pretty good through bumps.
 

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The newer dodge draglink requires the newer steering box.

You can also build a drag link from threaded bungs, Dom tube, and basic (short) TREs.
 

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Even easier, get a tie rod assembly from a 2wd with the 4000lb front end. If you need a little drop to correct angles, use the assembly from a van with 4000lb front end but you will need to trim the adjustment threads to get it short enough.

I have the van parts on my crew cab W300 with a plow and 3 inch lift.

Fwiw, the short tie rod and sleeve are the same for the above applications, the pickup inner is straight, the van unit has a bend. I can't recall for sure if you need the left or right van tie rod but I think it's the left. Look for pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the reply, i can probably do either one, slight bend could work, so will straight, so the 2wd years would cover 1972 to 1993?
 

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I'd go 78 to 93. There were across the board changes made in the 77 year. I don't have too much experience with the older trucks. It's a rust belt thing.

But as stated, I do have a 77 W300 and I made the drag link from a van tie rod. 8000 lb truck, no issues.

I started with the pickup tie rods but had a binding problem at the axle end. The bend in the van tie rod was just right to correct the angle.

Nice things are, replaceable ends and some adjustment for getting the steering box centered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just what im hoping for, ill search it out today, thanks guys, ill post my results
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
with the 1 ton van, the 3 parts bottomed out measure 19-3/4" taper to taper, stock drag link is 17" im seeing by precision from oreillys, i called offroad designs, im running a 1-1/2" tie rod tube, with 3/8" wall thickness they make, on my 1990 w250, they will make me one of the same for drag link 7/8-18 right and left threads when they can do it in their busy machine shop, this will be pretty bulletproof in strength.
 

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You miss the part about trimming down the ends of the TRE threads?

You can easily make for yourself what you're asking ORD to build. Ruffstuff, Barnes4wd, etc sell all the steering builder bits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
no, the length would require 1.5" on each side to get into adjustable range leaving barely any thread, right now im missing 20 percent of my right turn, and left will hit stop, the ord sleeve will allow full range of steering when centered out. the d60 accepts the d-link off center at s-box here on mine.
 

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I've shifted the axle or statically changed the draglink length (cut and weld) to maintain steering range.

My collection of spare bits now is a tapered reamer, a couple Dodge TREs, Chevy DLEs, threaded bungs, and some DOM tube. When i finalize my suspension height and axle position it'll be cake to put together.
 

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From memory I think I had to trim about. 75 From each tie rod threads and maybe. 5 From each end of the sleeve.

This allowed me to get the steering BOX centered with the tires pointing straight. The wheel gets centered by pulling it off and reclocking.

Remember, the van rods were used to solve a bind due to lift. If you're stock height use the pickup rod.

Reading your description of the lack of right turn and excess left turn indicates your box is off center and or your drag link is too short.

Jack the front end up, take the drag link off. Cycle the steering box from lock to lock, count the turns and bring it back exactly halfway. Ignore where the steering wheel points.

Set your front tires to point straight ahead.

Now measure the distance from pitman arm to axle arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i didnt want to cut and weld a vital steering point, the weight of the motor and torque had me wanting more bulk in the steering, i used the 3/4 ton cummins front leafs, but did not lift, and the bigger spring packs have the rc sitting pretty high, my w250 is 4" and rc does have 1" body lift mainly to clearance the taller nv4500, their not too much different in height. ill get it up on stands ths weekend and survey activity closer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
heres what i got from off road designs, 1.5" dom 12" long, and usd same tie rod ends as my 1990 w250, previous drag link was 19" stock is 17" according to oreillys. ill check adjustability today.
 

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