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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Awww yeah  ;D

One of the A-Bodies i'm buying from Tony is getting the Elephant treatment  :eek:  Priced the Engine Block and other parts, i can build a 426 Hemi from the ground up for ALOT Less than the Crate Engine costs.

So once i pay the rest of what i owe Tony for the Dusters and Parts i'm saving up for the Engine Block (the most expensive part) and i'll build myself a radical engine for the '71 Duster.  Right around 8k total if my math is correct.  3k for the Engine Block (Stock Bore 4.25") or for an additional $100 i can get the other Block with a 4.50" Bore (i'm gonna spend the extra $100  :p )

Stay tuned guys, as i cram "The Legend" in an A-Body  8)

IF you want pics, you're gonna have to bug tony, he has the car still  :p  And if you want pics of the engine, open the Mopar Performance Catalog and drool over that  ;D
 

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:eek:  Crazy kids!  :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
mopar65pa said:
:eek: Crazy kids! :p
I can hear what you're thinking tony...... 'I sooo want to drive that car when it's done' Sound about right? ;D
 

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ChrisKD said:
I can hear what you're thinking tony...... 'I sooo want to drive that car when it's done' Sound about right? ;D
Maybe........ ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brew-Crew04 said:
My thoughts exactly.

Talked to my dad, he's done this swap before and he offered some advice.

Solid Engine Mounts, Solid Transmission Mount. The engine sits tight against the Fenderwells (with manifolds) :eek: He said he had to mount the engine and transmission solid to keep it from smashing the fenderwells or cracking the manifolds.

He also recommended Connecting the Subframes, and running WIDE Tires in the rear. :p
 

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ChrisKD said:
He also recommended Connecting the Subframes, and running WIDE Tires in the rear. :p
Yep that would be a VERY good idea. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
mopar65pa said:
Yep that would be a VERY good idea. ;D
The '71 is definately getting the Subframes Connected, i may add addtional crossmembers under the car to reduce the amount of twisting it's gonna do :p

I may not get the 4.50" Bore Hemi Block, i'm not sure if you can bore it out any further (like if it ever needs bored again) :eek: I think i'll go with the standard 4.25" Bore Hemi Block, which i know can be bored out to almost 4.32 (That's alot of meat that can be used if the the engine ever needs a repair boring)
 

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ChrisKD said:
The '71 is definately getting the Subframes Connected, i may add addtional crossmembers under the car to reduce the amount of twisting it's gonna do :p

I may not get the 4.50" Bore Hemi Block, i'm not sure if you can bore it out any further (like if it ever needs bored again) :eek: I think i'll go with the standard 4.25" Bore Hemi Block, which i know can be bored out to almost 4.32 (That's alot of meat that can be used if the the engine ever needs a repair boring)
I have known guys that just bore them right out to the max to get more HP. To me it's foolish to do that for the little hp you gain. {noclue}
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
mopar65pa said:
I have known guys that just bore them right out to the max to get more HP. To me it's foolish to do that for the little hp you gain. {noclue}
Exactly the reason i think i'll go with the 4.25" Bore instead. Sure $100 more gets me the 4.50" Block and more performance, but what happens when it needs overhauled? Toss the block and buy another one :eek: Don't think so :p

At least with the 4.25" Bore Block i know i can bore it several times and still keep that block. Machine Costs and Pistons/Rings are cheaper than another 3k block 8)
 

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ChrisKD said:
Exactly the reason i think i'll go with the 4.25" Bore instead. Sure $100 more gets me the 4.50" Block and more performance, but what happens when it needs overhauled? Toss the block and buy another one :eek: Don't think so :p

At least with the 4.25" Bore Block i know i can bore it several times and still keep that block. Machine Costs and Pistons/Rings are cheaper than another 3k block 8)
Yep.......... ;D
 

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for subframe connectors. i highly recommend Mancini racings laser cut connectors. its a piece of like 3/16th plate folded an the cut to match the floors. they say that you just hold them to the floor an weld. well the cuts arent that nice. i put them on 2 70 cudas a 69 superbeen an a 68 barracuda. took me on average 3 hours per connector to grind them down an fit. but then there on it looks like its a solid frame. ima look for pictures they just look so nice an i trully belive there tuff as snot.

EDIT: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/chucker54_2126_122893594
heres an example of what im talkin they lay against the floor an fit in every single groove. they lay overteh frame piece on both ends. and look good from underneath like they were factory

EDIT2: they do have them there called weldin connectors but they dont have apicture for your application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Brew-Crew04 said:
for subframe connectors. i highly recommend Mancini racings laser cut connectors. its a piece of like 3/16th plate folded an the cut to match the floors. they say that you just hold them to the floor an weld. well the cuts arent that nice. i put them on 2 70 cudas a 69 superbeen an a 68 barracuda. took me on average 3 hours per connector to grind them down an fit. but then there on it looks like its a solid frame. ima look for pictures they just look so nice an i trully belive there tuff as snot.

EDIT: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/chucker54_2126_122893594
heres an example of what im talkin they lay against the floor an fit in every single groove. they lay overteh frame piece on both ends. and look good from underneath like they were factory

EDIT2: they do have them there called weldin connectors but they dont have apicture for your application.
Appreciate it Brew, but i have the metal and equipment to make my own weld in connectors and even frame sections ;D Made the Rear Sections for my Cuda last year and welded em in. Took me about a weekend to fabricate em and weld them in 8)

The metal i have is actually a huge roll of the steel that they use to stamp Unibody Frame Rails from. Heavy Roll, every time we move it we have to pick it up with the JD350 Dozer because it tips the skidloader over

EDIT : damn they do look snazy though, i may consider a set of those anyway 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Heres some motovation pics. for you :p



And this sleeper:



 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
R72W100 said:
Heres some motovation pics. for you :p



And this sleeper:



Nice! I'm diggin' that Red "340" Duster :p What's the deal with the Air Filters on that Sublime Green one though? It looks like some rags zip-tied to the carbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Drew said:
I would guess it is to keep people from tossing stuff in the carbs since it is at a car show.
I didn't think of that, but that is a good point. Envious People can be destructive when it comes to engines and vehicles. Not all people are that way, Some respect it for what it is. But some of em beleive if they can't have it, then you shouldn't either :-\

That's why i installed Hood Locks on my '74 Duster.
 
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