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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey so as you know i been wanting to do a cummins swap. I can get a 91 or a 93, both over 300k miles and sitting 10 years for like 700 bucks USD. Each. Prolly a bit crazy though or what. Thanks
 

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depends on what you wanna do row the gears or drive an go
 

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Hey so as you know i been wanting to do a cummins swap. I can get a 91 or a 93, both over 300k miles and sitting 10 years for like 700 bucks USD. Each. Prolly a bit crazy though or what. Thanks
$700 for a complete 6BT truck is a very good deal, even if it needs a full rebuild. Donor trucks can run up to $10k or more, so you're already way below the mark which leaves lots of $ available to restore everything...which is very likely if neither truck run. 300k is on the high end of miles, especially unknown miles, so if neither run you'll want to be very careful when trying to resurrect them. If it doesn't run, or it runs poorly, there can be a significant cost to correct whatever ails it, very likely requiring a full rebuild of the injection pump, but again if the whole truck is costing only $700 I'd...well I'd buy both and stow the spare parts, which are very handy, especially considering the cost of a reman'd injection pump.

If you're planning to tow for real, go for the intercooled unit...but you can always upgrade a non-IC truck with an intercooler, etc. That said, the non-IC heads can be more prone to cracking due to the larger 9mm injector bores. I'd go with an intercooled chassis and enjoy the benefits of not having to find everything. Even a running truck will likely require everything to be rebuilt, with the possible exception of the engine itself (but everything bolted to it will require rebuild/replacement/reseal, etc.

If I were working with a 300k-mile 6BT that doesn't run, I would be very tempted to pull the head and inspect everything really closely...and honestly, other than physical damage there isn't anything you can really detect by eyeball math, especially the cam and lifter lobes. And if you're going to that level of inspection just have the engine rebuilt and call it 'good'.

- Sam
 

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1991 1/2 will be intercooled, early '91s are non-intercooled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The 91 and 93 will be intercooled. The 89 wont be. So really the choices are auto, manual or non-intercooled so thats not something a random on a forum is going to pick for you.
I didnt ask for you guys to pick that for me. Lol. My concern is if 10 years of sitting is too much even for a 12 valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
$700 for a complete 6BT truck is a very good deal, even if it needs a full rebuild. Donor trucks can run up to $10k or more, so you're already way below the mark which leaves lots of $ available to restore everything...which is very likely if neither truck run. 300k is on the high end of miles, especially unknown miles, so if neither run you'll want to be very careful when trying to resurrect them. If it doesn't run, or it runs poorly, there can be a significant cost to correct whatever ails it, very likely requiring a full rebuild of the injection pump, but again if the whole truck is costing only $700 I'd...well I'd buy both and stow the spare parts, which are very handy, especially considering the cost of a reman'd injection pump.

If you're planning to tow for real, go for the intercooled unit...but you can always upgrade a non-IC truck with an intercooler, etc. That said, the non-IC heads can be more prone to cracking due to the larger 9mm injector bores. I'd go with an intercooled chassis and enjoy the benefits of not having to find everything. Even a running truck will likely require everything to be rebuilt, with the possible exception of the engine itself (but everything bolted to it will require rebuild/replacement/reseal, etc.

If I were working with a 300k-mile 6BT that doesn't run, I would be very tempted to pull the head and inspect everything really closely...and honestly, other than physical damage there isn't anything you can really detect by eyeball math, especially the cam and lifter lobes. And if you're going to that level of inspection just have the engine rebuilt and call it 'good'.

- Sam
Whatever i end up buying, the cummins motor will be torn and ever seal replaced, and painted. Im hoping thats all i have to do. Still working on my complete 440 rebuild and dont want to do that anytime soon again lol. My plan is to leave the short block alone. Thats going off the fact that these motors have a very good reputation, and a well maintained one should easily get 600 miles. Ill never put that many miles on anyway. The most appealing in these trucks is that ill have all the parts to do the swap. So even if the motor is bad, ill still have all the other diesel parts, sell all the 5spd stuff for more than i bought the truck, and id have a dually axle for a dually swap later on lol. About that dually, this truck (the 93 dually 5spd) was a cab and chassis, with the longer wheel base. Like a cube van type of thing. Is that dually axle the same as a normal truck one? Im really thing about a dually swap, so that would make the truck even more worth it.
By the way, he also has a 96 dually with 250miles. Also been sitting ten years. Same price. That would give me the p pump motor and lower miles. But the wrong style truck. Or will everything still be a bolt in? Will that duay axle be compatible with my truck? My trucks that 75 d200 by the way
 
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