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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
here is a piece I had laying around, its 1 1/2 inch schedule 40 gas pipe, its kinda got a little burr on the inside from fish mouthing it with a chop saw, (all I could do on short notice), but hopefully it will give you an idea of the pipe u have
 

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well there guy, a deburring tool is only like $2 and im sure ya could find a file some where.

it doesnt appear you re measuring on center but id guestimate the dimensions are cloer to 2"x3/16 which should suffice plenty for a rock rig. wish i knew the pounds per foot weight for that stuff. im sure its not too light.

we need a generall how to on measuring cutting welding and bending that stuff into a cage. i know it can be done with cheap tools so i wanna know how ya did it. did ya heat the pipe? did you fill it wil sand so it doesnt crush? did ya just put it in a 12 ton pipe press?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Joe,, lol,, I just posted this pic for Sam after some IM's back and forth about pipe size, we were kinda trying to identify what pipe he has, the pic was taken quickly and the tape was about centered on the points of the fishmouth (which was not quite center), as for a deburring tool, I have one, but this piece was going to be one of the "doors" of the cage til i decided to hinge them and make the bar open like a suicide door so it became extra, and the burrs on the inside of the pipe dont effect the weld at all, so i left em
as for the pipe its 1 1/2 schedule 40 black pipe commonly used for running gas lines,, measured Inner Diameter is 1 1/2 inch, outer is 1 15/16 with a wall thickness of about 5/32,,this is what the majority of my cage is built from,cause I got about 250-300 ft free a few years ago, I still have about 100-120 feet or so left, I dont remember how much the cage actually took, i think it was about 5- 20 ft pieces or so, with some mistakes and some extra pieces

as for measuring it, it was 1/3 done by eye and 1/3 done with a tape measure, and 1/3 done by cutting off the extra to make a good fit, as for cutting I used a 14 inch chop saw for most of it, I got better at the fishmouthing thing as i went along, i believe it was 2- 30-35 degree angles to make a good fit against the side of another pipe, I tried the hole saw on a drill press which makes an excellent fit, but takes 10 times longer, as for the bender, it was the ole faithful 12 ton orange harbor freight pipe bender, with the die labeled "1 1/2",, the bender came with 2", 1 1/2", 1 1/4", 1", 3/4" 1/2" dies, and I pulled a fast one when i bought it, I screwed up the 2 inch die on my very first bend by not moving my rollers, and the 12 ton bender itself has trouble with 2 inch too, so i called harbor freight, told em the 2" die was cast wrong, I sent just the 2" die back and they sent me a whole nother set, so i have doubles of every die but the 2", I didnt need to heat, or fill with sand or anything, the only trick I learned with the bender was to start the bend with the rollers on the closer/inner holes, and move them out after i got to about 45 degrees, this prevents too much "dimpling" from where the rollers hold/hit the pipe

ya know I have never really thought about doing a how to on pipe bending, i kinda just figured everyone knows how (or can figure it out easy enuf) but i suppose it would be a good idea, maybe when i finally finnish my "how i did" on my 727 tranny I may look to something easier like how to bend pipe,,lol

And Sam,, whenever you got time to take the pic is ok on my end
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I didnt see the pic (til now), right after i posted that book, i went to eat dinner and to watch the new star gate, I got your im and now i see that your pipe looks the same, it appears to be the uncoated/unthreaded type, (gas line is coated with some clear cote stuff to prevent rust and comes threaded on each end with a coupling attached to one side) that stuff is slightly better than mine cause when I bend the clearcote stuff flakes off and makes a bit of a mess,
and your right, the bender wont do much more than a 90 degree bend but about 1/2 way thru the bend process, I would move the rollers out a hole or 2, its been a while since i bent , but I think it was roughly about 45 degres or so, I would start the bend with the rollers closer to the inner holes, i dont think it was the closest holes, but maybe the second ones out, then I would jack it up some to begin the bend, then I would stop, release tension, and move the rollers out a hole or 2, i think I may have even moved em 3 times on some bends tp prevent the "dimples" from the rollers, with pipe that thick, the rollers dont roll too well so it is nessessary to move them to not have depressions where they hold the pipe against the die, you will figure it out soon enough and see what i mean, also you may have better luck with the uncoated pipe, I think the coating may have caused the pipe to "stick" to the roller, it wouldnt hurt to try WD40 or even oil on it while bending too, I didnt try it, but in hindsight, it seems that it would allow the rollers to "roll" better, maybe a how to is in order?? lol

Also, I cant see it , but does that pipe have a seam, it should be visible from inside the pipe, it kinda looks like the seam line is on the bottom of the pipe inside, about behind the one inch mark on the top of the tape
if it is in fact seamed, make sure to put the seam to the inside of the bend, (to the bottom middle of the die during bend) it will be stronger that way if it ever has to be used for impact
 

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Thanks for the info Steve. So your hold saw method took too long to notch the pipe? I went and bought a nice holesaw blade (don't remember the name, I use the same brand for my sawzall which is the best blade I have ever used, longest lasting and doesn't bend as easy). It was like 15 bucks for the holesaw blade. I have a drill press I will use it on, I hope it works out well.

Jamie is bringing me the rest of the dies tomorrow, so I should be able to get started on some of it by tomorrow. I will make some test bends first so I don't ruin my precut stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
my table top drill press kinda sux so the hole saw method took too long for me, but it does come out way better, I have a set of Milwalkie (sp?) hole saws, (same brand as my sawzall too) but i just got good at the chop saw angle cuts and filled the little gaps with weld, good luck with the roll bar, are u going to tie it to the frame somehow?
 

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Yeah it will tie into the frame. I think my pipe is a little thinner walled then yours, it didn't have very great looking bends and high angles. The little bends look perfect but the big angle bends and getting flat at the top and not being very smooth inside the bend. But I will have to live with that for Ram Jam, I don't have time to go and find some tubing (hard to find around here, and very expensive) and get a tubing bender. Plus I can't afford it anyways.

I am not sure what this pipe is for, it isn't for water, I think it is just standard pipe that you get from the metal shops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Joe, I just used my millermatic 130 wire feed welder, at first I was just doing the .030 Flux core wire, then i went to useing it as a MIG, with some trimix(argon,c02 and something else) gas and solid wire, then ran outta gas and was just useing c02 there for a while,I dont have any colse up pix of my welds to speak of but in the 3-4 years i have been abusing the cage i havent broken any, I havent rolled it yet either, but i have slammed against rock several times

Petepower, My pipe is Gas pipe, since it was free I just couldnt not use it, and i wasnt about to go buy tubing when i had 500 fet of pipe
 

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Co2's perpose is to sheild the weld form the atmosphere. All the other gasses in our air like nitrogen and oxygen make a weld get perosity (the little holes you see when you run out of gas). There should be no slag with a wire feed welder, unless you are using a flux core or metal core wire.

There Are three basic Gas setups for a mig welder. in Short circuit transfer (low voltage mig welding)

Co2. this is what alot of weld shops use, its used in a weld that does not need to be clean. By clean I mean co2 will throw more spatter around then the other gases. ITs also has a harsh arc and is i little tricky to get use too.

C25. or 75% argon and 25% Co2. Is used when you want a minimal spatter and a flatter more fluid weld. Its probably the easyest to use, but does cost a little bit more.

trimix. This is the one you wont see alot. Its used for stainless steal and other exotic metals. I cant remeber the presentages right now off the top of my head.

Dodgeman I think you were probably useing the C25 or the 75% argon and 25% co2. For what you were welding I personaly would not have use The trimix. I strongly recomend C25, its the best for a guy like your self. If you weld quit a bit. You might try using straight co2, That is if you dont care about the spatter. This would also be the cheapest.

thats just a quick gas lesson, because there are so many other variables it would take a week to explan all them to you, and frankly i dont know all of them. I only know what Ive done but I still hope I could be some help.

 
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