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Topic: CAD pictures and links to the FAQ  (Read 25980 times)
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« on: December 20, 2005, 03:39:04 PM »

here is some pics to the frequently asked common problem of the central axle disconnect operated 4x4 trucks. this was used from 85-93 RCs and trucks (it was used on later models as well but we will stick with these

How does CAD work

How to diagnose problems with RAMTRAC {CAD}


CAD axle housing to hold a non-CAD axle shaft





* S3000022.JPG (32.07 KB, 640x480 - viewed 3117 times.)

* S3000020.JPG (34.37 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2716 times.)

* S3000018.JPG (18.5 KB, 480x360 - viewed 2684 times.)

* S3000016.JPG (32.94 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2784 times.)
« Last Edit: February 22, 2006, 12:07:29 AM by willy J » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: December 20, 2005, 03:42:39 PM »

here is the electrical switch inside the housing. when the vacuum motor is activated it will slide the rod over and engage the switch completing a circuit to send power to the light in the dash,

the shift fork is e clipped into place.


* S3000019.JPG (23.83 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2761 times.)
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« Reply #2 on: December 20, 2005, 03:44:36 PM »

the two parts that go out the most is the T case switch. it gums up and will not divert vacuum to the vac motor in the CAD housing.

the vac motor will also gum up or corrode and will not let the shift slide to engage the collar.

i hope this helps.
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« Reply #3 on: December 20, 2005, 10:39:46 PM »

good stuff man, that will be an excellant supplement to the information already here.
One additional picture request that may complete the set. 
Would you be able to get a pic of the fork's attachment to the rod, including the e-clips?
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« Reply #4 on: December 20, 2005, 11:39:23 PM »

A good shot of the underside showing all the clips would be great Grin .  Thanks for the pics Smiley
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« Reply #5 on: December 21, 2005, 09:17:48 AM »

Thanks for the pics Don. They'll come in real handy when I try to permanently lock my CAD this weekend.

Chris
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« Reply #6 on: December 21, 2005, 02:38:01 PM »

A good shot of the underside showing all the clips would be great Grin . Thanks for the pics Smiley

as soon as i get back home i will do that.

its nice and easy when your CAD is spread out on you counter  Grin
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« Reply #7 on: December 21, 2005, 07:21:35 PM »

Thanks for the detailed photos!
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« Reply #8 on: December 21, 2005, 10:51:36 PM »

under side with e clips



* under.JPG (47.51 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2697 times.)

* under2.JPG (51.66 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2667 times.)

* under3.JPG (64.04 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2775 times.)
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« Reply #9 on: December 23, 2005, 09:38:35 AM »

Seems to me like you could just pull the CAD motor off and rotate it 180 degrees and put it back on to lock the axle.

Thanks again for the detailed photos
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« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2005, 11:40:03 PM »

yes liberty. that is exactly what is entailed in a CAD flip. like what wycowboy referred to when he stated that is how is going to permantly lock his CAD. then you just replace the flanges with hubs and disconnect the vac lines.

then to get the light to work you replace the switch in the Tcase from the vac one to an electric solenoid one and wire it up!
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« Reply #11 on: December 24, 2005, 09:10:29 AM »

the common way I've read on locking the CAD is to disassemble it, and move the fork over and reassemble, with the e-clips now holding the fork in the needed place.

But one4liberty suggested just flipping the whole housing around instead of moving the fork inside of it.

Do you know if that will work?
Kind of looks like it wouldn't move the fork over as far as the first method would.
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« Reply #12 on: December 24, 2005, 09:26:46 AM »

Int the FAQ it mentioned to move the fork on the other side of the e-clip.  I must have missed wycowboys flip method.  I only now need to decide which way to go with mine.  Undecided   I don't go 4 wheeling too often and I live in FL so snow is not an issue for needing to switch on the fly.  I'm leaning towards the permantent lock.  One less vacuum source to leak!
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« Reply #13 on: December 24, 2005, 10:58:03 AM »

When my vacuum motor stopped working I removed the cover slid the coller over to connect the two shafts and reinstalled the fork on the outside of the collor It held it in place untill I got another J/Y replacement. The rubber boot inside the motor went bad on mine... someday I'm gonna hook up a cable to it and do away with the vacuum crap all together. Is there a how to on that? This may be an opportunity to do one. BTW there are two different CAD covers some have vent hose connections and some don't.
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« Reply #14 on: December 24, 2005, 11:06:44 AM »

When my vacuum motor stopped working I removed the cover slid the coller over to connect the two shafts and reinstalled the fork on the outside of the collor It held it in place untill I got another J/Y replacement. The rubber boot inside the motor went bad on mine... someday I'm gonna hook up a cable to it and do away with the vacuum crap all together. Is there a how to on that? This may be an opportunity to do one. BTW there are two different CAD covers some have vent hose connections and some don't.

The posi-lock wesite has the how-to.  Manual hubs are cheaper.  I put them on mine mainly to stop spinning the front axle shafts when on the highway.
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« Reply #15 on: December 25, 2005, 09:14:13 PM »

the common way I've read on locking the CAD is to disassemble it, and move the fork over and reassemble, with the e-clips now holding the fork in the needed place.

But one4liberty suggested just flipping the whole housing around instead of moving the fork inside of it.

Do you know if that will work?
Kind of looks like it wouldn't move the fork over as far as the first method would.


ooh. your right donk. i misunderstood. no i dont believe you can just rotate the housing 180. i thought he meant the shift fork inside the housing.
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« Reply #16 on: January 22, 2006, 11:46:08 AM »

I have a 86 ramcharger. My Something is wrong with my cad system. I went to the dealer ship and it is alot of money to replace a few parts. I would like to lock it in. I now there is a way to do and if anyone nows how or where to find it can u let me now.  harrity@bellsouth.net
thank u
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« Reply #17 on: January 28, 2006, 04:01:46 AM »

did you read the post above??

BTW. coming soon. Drive Flange pics.
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« Reply #18 on: January 29, 2006, 07:25:13 PM »

I have to ask:
In the first picture, is the shift fork offset correct?  I took mine apart and got sidetracked with the engine and forgot the offset.  In the '88 FSM it says offset should be toward the differential, but there are a ton of mistakes in that book. 

So; Is the first picture correct?

Thank you
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« Reply #19 on: January 31, 2006, 01:30:46 AM »

i believe so.
there is a 50/50 chance i could be wrong though.  Grin
if you install it and the driveshaft spins with the tire then you have it in backwards. flip it a 180 degrees and you will be fine then.
i will posting more pics later of axle to shift fork correlation as well as actual pics of the slide collar as soon as i get my spare CAD axle out of the trailer its in

for now here is some more pics of the CAD Hub internals



* hub and rotor.JPG (74.67 KB, 559x420 - viewed 2264 times.)

* hub parts.JPG (63.29 KB, 566x384 - viewed 2590 times.)

* S3000037.JPG (72.17 KB, 608x456 - viewed 2390 times.)

* new brakes.JPG (71.72 KB, 513x385 - viewed 2327 times.)
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« Reply #20 on: January 31, 2006, 01:35:45 AM »

sorry for the blury pics on that 3rd photo. i lost resolution in the reduction.

the top left is a pic of the hub. also you can see the splines inside. that is where you manual hub or driveflange connects too. the flange recieves its power from the stub shaft in the 4th pic.

if you have any questions about the pics i can send a bigger copy that should be able to be read easier. in the meantime ill try to fix that one.


* guts2.JPG (54.5 KB, 520x466 - viewed 2313 times.)
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« Reply #21 on: January 31, 2006, 03:11:33 AM »

picture of lock nut placement courtesy of Ram

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« Reply #22 on: February 11, 2006, 02:20:51 PM »

i just bought 3/4 ton axles for my 1/2 ton truck.the model 44 has(3/4 ton) has the central axle disconect.my 84 has no provisions for this.from what ive read above,i can move the fork and lock the axles,then add manual hubs?will the auto lock hubs on my 1/2 ton model 44 work on the 3/4 ton?ir will i need to purchace new hubs.can i use the inernals from the 1/2 ton on the 3/4 ton?the locking rings(i think)ive read that you have to buy a conversion for the 3/4 ton axle?from the look of the kit i saw,all the inernals look like what i already have on the 1/2 ton hubs.-brian.
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« Reply #23 on: February 16, 2006, 02:08:35 AM »

im sure no one is ignoring the question ironhorse but you might want to cut this and paste it as a new question in the help board. i do not know the answer to your question.
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« Reply #24 on: March 5, 2006, 12:49:31 PM »

I finally got the CAD "permanently" locked on my 87. I put some lockout hubs on a couple of months ago but its been too wet, cold or snowy in my gravel driveway for me to get underneath and lock the CAD unit until today. I thought I would post up with some info that I didn't see here yet. The collar that locks the two axles together needs to slide towards the center of the truck. Mine was very difficult to slide by hand, in fact I couldn't move it all, even after locking the hub and turning the wheel. I had to put the motor back on the axle and then have it lock the axles together. After that I wasn't sure what I needed to do to the shift fork to make sure it kept the collar in place so the axles locked together. I just followed the first link posted in the first post of this thread, How does CAD work. All you need is what Sam posted. My fork was a little difficult to slide over too but with a little persuasion with a ball pien hammer and a small screwdriver to hold the shaft in place it finally moved. The motor then bolts right back onto the axle shaft.

I'm glad I finally got this done. It was taking 3-5 minutes for my axles to finally lock together, usually about 5. If you are having problems with the CAD not working correctly, just get some hubs and then lock it permanently.

Chris
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« Reply #25 on: March 12, 2006, 08:50:28 AM »

4x4 Posi-Lok now has out a Perm-Lok kit to permanantly lock the CAD. 
It sounds so easy to do with the factory parts and just the cost of a gasket though, not sure why one would need to buy their kit for $95.
Their site doesn't list any benefits over locking the way posted here.
For the less knowing than us I suppose. 

http://4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html
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« Reply #26 on: March 12, 2006, 01:06:57 PM »

finally got the axle swap done on my truck.now running 90 model 3/4 ton axles in my 84 w 150.the cad flip was straight forward,and really very easy.took all of about 15 minutes to complete.i would not have had the ease of instalation without all the knowledge and tips ive received from rcc.all the information is acurate,detailed,and more than helpful.i would like to thank everyone for their advise,and information.

heres the current parts list.
dana 60 rear,limited slip,4.10 gears
dana 44 open,4.10 gears,cad flip,milemarker stainless hubs
rough country 4 inch lift,with steering block and heckthorn shocks
borgeson steering shaft
edelbrock 1406 600 cfm carb
white face gauges

still have miles to go,but its gettin there....-brian

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« Reply #27 on: March 19, 2006, 05:00:52 PM »

I am confused a bit here (not a difficult thing to do to me).  I want to lock my cad.  Can I disassemble the cad and flip the fork and reassemble to permanently lock the cad?  Do I need to do anything else?

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« Reply #28 on: March 19, 2006, 05:12:04 PM »

You don't need to disassemble the fork completely. All you need to do is remove the motor from the axle tube and slide the locking collar over into the locked position. After you do that but before you reinstall the motor you need to remove the e-clips on either side of the fork, move the fork on the shaft to the other side and then reinstall teh eclips to hold it there. Then reinstall the motor. What that does is holds the locking collar in the locked position.

Chris
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« Reply #29 on: April 4, 2006, 06:45:48 AM »

Great information, could have used it when I installed the manual hubs on my R/C. I'm sure it' going to help a lot of people.  Great Job!!!
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« Reply #30 on: May 14, 2006, 01:40:44 PM »

I hope so. That was the point! That and to reduce the amount of CAD problems posts! Thanks to everyone here who helped out and cleared up some questions that I did not!
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« Reply #31 on: June 6, 2006, 09:23:07 PM »

What about on 94-+ Rams? Is there any way to get manual locking hubs and lock the cad on these axles? i have done what yall are talkin about in this thread about 3 years ago and it was on a 93 D44. just wondering what us Gen2 Ram owners have for options. Dan
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« Reply #32 on: June 6, 2006, 09:37:43 PM »

locking the CAD itself is the same on the 94-01/02, but with the unit bearing design there is no easy way to add the manual hubs.  For the Dana 60 from that era, Dynatrac has a kit that swaps the knuckes out (can't remember if that includes the knuckles too) and includes servicable bearings and manual hubs, but it isn't cheap.  Last I saw, they didn't have anything for the 44 and haven't heard of any other companies either.
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'85 3/4 Ton Dodge , Utiline longbed , 318 , 4-speed
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« Reply #33 on: June 7, 2006, 12:37:00 PM »

Thats too bad. Just thought Id ask. Dan
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« Reply #34 on: August 2, 2006, 05:31:12 PM »

If anyone is interested I can do a small how too. I recently got the Posi Lok "Perm Lok" and will be eliminating the vacuum lines and vacuum ball as well as the vacuum operated T case switch.
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« Reply #35 on: August 2, 2006, 09:50:27 PM »

a How-To would be great
This is a popular topic, so adding more info, with pictures of course, will be helpfull to many.  And the Perm-lok dealie will add another option for folks to ponder.
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« Reply #36 on: August 16, 2006, 12:43:36 PM »

When my vacuum motor stopped working I removed the cover slid the coller over to connect the two shafts and reinstalled the fork on the outside of the collor It held it in place untill I got another J/Y replacement. The rubber boot inside the motor went bad on mine... someday I'm gonna hook up a cable to it and do away with the vacuum crap all together. Is there a how to on that? This may be an opportunity to do one. BTW there are two different CAD covers some have vent hose connections and some don't.

 yes there is,
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_dodge.html

a company makes these for several applications, makes it cable operated....
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« Reply #37 on: September 2, 2006, 01:00:30 AM »

Here is my Perm Lok kit. The only thing not included is the shift fork. Which will come off the truck. The T case switches were not included either. Why I posted them is so you can see the difference. The CAD T Case switch is a vac unit. The older non CAD axles used an electric switch. I will show you what wires I splice to make the dash light work properly with the new switch and the perm locked CAD axle.



* CAD PERM LOCK.JPG (49.17 KB, 720x540 - viewed 1711 times.)
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« Reply #38 on: September 3, 2006, 02:17:05 PM »

hey, when you, or anyelse to lock the CAD past or future, look at what kind of shape the little pads are in on the fork.  I've seen replacements available, but have never heard any mention of replacing them.  Was just wondering if they'd be worth having on hand when going through the lock.
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« Reply #39 on: October 7, 2006, 02:08:57 PM »

Mine were in pretty good shape.

Update. I did the Perm Lok. Too easy! You cannot screw it up as long as you follow the directions. As far as the vaccuum lines. Gone.... all 20 feet worth of them. Make sure you plug the open ports after youo disconnect the line. One is on the engine and the other is on the passenger side inner fender. A vacuum block.

I did not remove the dingle ball on the crossmember but it is now dead weight. As far as the T case goes. One RCC member reported just finding a big enough plug that threaded in and called it good. I ordered a switch from a 81-84 Np 208 and put that in. It was easy. All I did was run the positive lead from the CAD switch back the T case and used a ring terminal and bolted it onto the new switch. It self grounds when you engage the T case so you can cut the other black wire off at the end of it.

It all worked very well when I went to Moab and I had no problems. So there is an effective way to eliminate your CAD.

You do not need the Perm Lok kit or the cable kit Unless you still want to run your drive flanges and have a in the cab shift to 4x4. Thats only if you dont want to get out and turn manual hubs. Or you could eliminate the CAD and run auto hubs.

You can use the stock CAD cover and just flip the shift fork 180 degrees. That will save you money there. If you find a set of Warn premium hubs in a JY you can get a rebuild kit for them. While you are there just take the switch off of a 81-84 np 208 and you can do a CAD removal for less then 100$ bucks. Reliability is no longer expensive!
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« Reply #40 on: February 15, 2007, 10:48:21 AM »

I have a question for you. On my CAD the vacuum control motor can be rotated about 1/4 turn. is this normal or is it just loose and I should look at tightening it.

Thanks for your help
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« Reply #41 on: February 15, 2007, 02:53:26 PM »

I have always been able to turn mine too. I wouldn't worry about it.
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« Reply #42 on: February 15, 2007, 07:04:06 PM »

X2.

I would. Time to toss it in favor of mechanical reliability instead of vaccum instability.  Grin
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« Reply #43 on: February 23, 2007, 10:09:40 AM »

Hey.  I don't mean to be rude, but I do need to correct you.  It's not in any database I can find, but some 84 trucks and RC's had the CAD.  I know, because I have one.  The truck was built in August of 83, so it's not a late model year addition.  I just have one of those oddballs.  Is there any way I can have this and other websites mention the fact that some 84's have the CAD?  Maybe you can help me accomplish this cause I know there are other 84 RC owners scratching there heads going "WTF?"
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« Reply #44 on: February 24, 2007, 12:18:11 AM »

The burden of proof lies on you  Smiley

Not sure. The two manuals I am working out of (Chrysler microfiche parts manuals) have the 84 without and the 85 with CAD.

I will not claiming to be an expert. I wont say it never happened. I am suspicious if that is the original axle.

The best way to figure if your truck is a CAD truck is to crawl under and look. If it has the sleeve over the axle and the motor is hooked up and running then there is a good chance you have CAD. Regardless of year. I am certain there is a 70s truck running around with a CAD axle under it.

Now if you really want to prove us wrong find the BOM of your front axle in your 84 and post it for the experts to decipher it and tell us when the axle was made! To many things happen to 26 year old trucks. So not all of them are still "bone" stock.

Good luck and advice and corrections are always welcome!
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« Reply #45 on: February 24, 2007, 12:48:39 AM »

i know at one time this was a stickied topic. is it supposed to be un-stickied, if so please return it to that state. i am going to sticky it again for now though as it has some really good CAD info that gets asked alot

eric
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« Reply #46 on: May 6, 2007, 09:19:40 AM »

your right ERIC there is alot of good info but theres also alot of BS= non-pertinent posts that should be deleted / it needs to be edited down to just the info 



« Last Edit: May 6, 2007, 09:22:17 AM by BOGGER35 » Logged

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« Reply #47 on: May 7, 2007, 12:25:34 PM »

still needs an edit


* cad_mechanism.jpg (14.6 KB, 291x204 - viewed 1256 times.)

* cad_asy.jpg (16.37 KB, 300x228 - viewed 1423 times.)
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« Reply #48 on: May 10, 2007, 11:35:45 AM »

I dont know if it is possible but couldnt you take a left side axle shaft from a dana 44 that came standard with manual hubs and slap it in to were the 2 piece axle shaft was, and then completly take out the vacuum crap all together.
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« Reply #49 on: May 10, 2007, 11:50:35 AM »

I dont know if it is possible but couldnt you take a left side axle shaft from a dana 44 that came standard with manual hubs and slap it in to were the 2 piece axle shaft was, and then completly take out the vacuum crap all together.
I am pretty sure Cooper30 did just that.
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85 Black RC 4X4  Prospector,  3.5" Lift, M/T Claw 33's, w/ Megasquirt fuel injection, locked front and rear.
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