I just had mine aligned and they set it as close as possible due to the lower front end.  It is now set a -0.3 and pulls to the right just a shade.  Not even noticeable.  I did have to buy new camber tabs that are included with new bolts and upper control arm bushings.  Price was steep though at $148 (that was for one side).
Working on lowering the rear now.  Got axle down, shocks off and now ready to remove rear leafs.  I have 1/2 ton with 5 leaves.  Can I remove just to bottom leaf?  How much drop would I get?  Already have AIM lower shackles on back.  I need another 2" drop though.  Would I be better off buying AIM hangers and shims, or removing leaves?  Got to get the rear leafs off the truck yet, so better get busy.

Well I got everything put back together.  Measured the fenders again after the drop and got about 3 1/2" on all corners.  Got a hot rod rake now.  The front is down to about 1" above the tires.  Put new shocks on the front but need to change to a lower shock though and add bump stops.  The rear is lower due to removing leaves.  Running 245-60-15 on the front and 275-60-15 on the rear.  Need shocks there also.  Hopefully everything will stay together.  Thanks to all for the info.
Garry

I got the rake too, LOVE it!! Low on both ends, but with that nose in the weeds look.,,,,Cruisin

Let's see some pics with the new lowness.

hopefully in the next week ill be getting a job and if i do i will be working my ass off all summer to airbag my truck. i know a guy who owns a shop around here so i can get parts cheaper and have access to the welders and plasmas and all that jazz. i will be laying frame in the back and engine crossmember up front. ill take lots of pics as i do it. my setup will be as follows:
4 contitech 2600 single 1/2" port bags
4 SMC 1/2" lift valves
4 SMC 3/8" drop valves
2 SMC 1/2" water/oil traps to keep the tanks dry
2 viair 450 compressors
2 5 gallon airtanks
7 power window style switches to operate; each corner, front, back and all four at once
1 toggle switch with cover to lockout all the other switches to prevent accidents
3 dual needle gauges: 1 for tanks, 1 for front bags, 1 for rear bags
on the rear frame im going to notch it 4" and put a 2x2" 1/4"wall tubing to brace the frame and box the whole area in
lift the rear floor 2" higher for axle clearance
swap the backseat for one from a dodge raider (alreayd have it from a buddy of mine)
move the parking brake brakets up a few inches (hang below frame a ways)
headers and true duals: hedman headers, 2-1/2" tubing into high flow cats into glasspacks and out in front of the rear wheels
dakota drop spindles if i can fit it into my budget
raise inner fenders a few inches
my tires and wheels will tuck in fine
i'd like to Z the frame 2 to 2-1/2" but i'd have to redo the firewall and ill wait until i drop a better motor in to do that
i'd also like to section the bottom 2" out of the C channel frame and box it all in but i dont want to raise the rear floor even more because i wouldnt be able to have a backseat anymore...unless i hauled little kids, which i dont.

all in all, it should only be about $700 to get all the parts i need. and because ill be doing all the work myself ill save tons that way. i also plan on shaving all the trim, cab lines, body gaps (fenders, cowl panel, rockers, ect), tail lights (led strips in stock area), door handles with poppers, add 93 f150 sport mirrors, swap fender lights to clear units from ebay, steel roll pan, shaved bumper bolts, build a full phantom (goes in front of headlights) 1/4" steel bar grill, get a tailgate from a pickup and weld it in then cut the lift gate in half to be like the s10 blazers. i know these sound like a lot of mods but its not really too much. there is a big truck show on aug 27th that im going to be in and i want to win atleast 3rd in SUV wild...thats my summer goal.

i know this was a long post but hopefully it will entertain somebody or provide others with ideas. all the body mods will be easy for me being that im an experiance welder and love working with sheetmetal. later people.

well so far all ive gotten done is the driver handle and the lower trim (but i havent smoothed out the holes and studs). i mostly shaved the handle as practice. i need to put on a new door anyways and i wanted to see if i would like having to use the key lock to get in. i love it, its super easy to open that way. on the new door ill use door poppers but leave the key locks just in case. as soon as i have the cash im going to pick up a new driver fender, driver door, core support and front bumper. i also need to check the steel bending places around here to see if i made a 1" wide peice that has the roll pan curves, that they could make a full width panel. if not, ill have to order the one that AIM sells...but ive heard more bad things about them than any other mail order company still in business ever. ill keep everyone updated.

All I can suggest is to cut off your bumpstop brackets, all the way up to the spring cups. It sounds dumb, but it does make a big difference in the overall ride. I found mine was bottoming out quite often on the bumpstops, to the point where even the trimmed energy suspension bushings were hitting. I used the trusty DeWalt sawzall, and made them disappear. Now it rides a bit stiff, but no death shudder liike before. I should have the KYB drop shocks tomorrow afternoon, it can only get better.,,,,Cruisin

Well, I put the new 99-01 Chevy shocks on today. KYB brand. They were actually a longer body than the cheapies I had on it. The cheapies were half as stiff as the new ones, though. Once I got them all bolted up I went for a ride. All I can say is wow. The steering wheel is not as sensitive to road imperfections . Before the wheel would jerk on bumps, and had a loose feeling. The ride is alot firmer, steadier, and the handling is way improved. Nice shocks for the money. I can feel the back shocks are weaker now. I have never replaced them at all, so the difference is really apparent.,,,,Cruisin

Cut off your bumpstop brackets, and it just might. I thought I could get away with not doing it, but no matter how short I cut the bolt on bumper, it still hit. It was the single biggest improvement other than the new shocks.,,,,Cruisin

Well got the truck lowered 3 " all around.  Everything new on the front and 3" lower shocks all around.  Still need to cut off the front bump stops.  Todday though when driving, a noise started and sounded like droping a bunch of pipes.  It only happened when giving gas up a hill.  Everything is tight, checked grease in rear end, universal is good and greased. Could that noise be caused by the pinion angle.  I don't have a tool to measure the angle though.  Called around and no one rents them but they are $100 to buy.  A little too much just to use once.  Would the pinion shims get rid of the noise or is there some other problem?

all i could suggest is to check it with a pinion angle finder but you mentioned that it isnt very feasable so im not sure. did the driveshaft go into the tranny to far or is something rubbing? im kinda at a loss of ideas...

I reversed the shims putting the wide side towards the front and the noise is gone.  I still have a small vibration in the floor boards though at low speeds.  checked to see if anything was close to anything, but all is OK.  Going to change universals next.

well, im hoping to build a full custom frame for the rc by the end of spring (hopefully before new years). some being ill have to buy new tires and wheels anyways, i figured "why do i need to keep stuff on the dodge pattern?" and being im going to run 18s and 20s, i dont even need the front to have the same bolt pattern as the back. im not sure of what kind of rear end ill run, i just know it'll have discs. as for the front, im going to use a rack and pinion setup from an 80s dakota. ill fab up my own tie rod ends and that stuff, quick ratio steering box (corvette or similar), tubular control arms (either aftermarket or custom depending on what kind of spindle i decide to use). airbagged front and rear. rear will have a 3link wishbone style link setup. bags on the bars. 2x3" box tubing with a .250 wall thickness. 1.5" OD link bars with a .250 wall thickness. 10 gallons or so of air storage. 235-45-18s & 275-35-20s. not sure of the rims yet, but probably Intro's because i can get a good deal on them. all in all, the build up should cost around $5000. but thats also building a 354/727 combo to move it all. the reason im building up a new frame as opposed to modifying this one is there is no vehicle down time this way...just lift my body off one day. roll the old chassis out and roll the new one in. hook up a few electrical connections, the fuel system and the brakes and its done. body dropped ramcharger on 18s and 20s. but best of all, ill still have seating in the back! but that part will make things 10 times more complicated. later guys.

nope. carry no spares. carry my AAA card. worst case scenario, i have to pay a tow truck to get to where i need to go.

on the site, i only know of one person who has put bags on a pre 94 truck. thats "lofrontier". he did it to his old 93 ram. he used bags and cups up front. in the back he flipped the axle, pulled some leaves and mounted the bags on the axle. bascially set up like a "helper bag" setup, but alot faster. you could always put a 4link in the back, or some similar setup. the only thing is, youll have to notch the front upper bag area and the rear frame rails. good luck if you decide to go ahead with the project. i know tons about airbagged suspensions so if you need to know any more i can help you out. if i can save the money my goal is to have a total new frame with a built 354 and bags by my birthday (april 11th). sorta a present to myself. later people.

Hey guys, I am 15 and I am getting my license soon. Well, ive had my 87 Dodge ram D100 for 2 years now, I have a 360 with all the aluminum goodies from mopar and I have done mostly everything i want to it, until i stand back and see that the ride hieght just isnt what I want, I dont want a radical drop where a ton of fabbing is done. I just want a nice even ride maybe like a 4"rear and a 2"front drop? I want to do this the easiest way possible but, I dont want to sacrafice the handling/ride of the truck tremendously. I have looked into AIM and found some parts, but I wanted to get an opinion from some people who have done this, If you can give me any part numbers or part names that will give me this drop, it is all appreciated. O ya, how much drop will a rear axle flip kit actually give my truck and is there any real bad ride or handling sacrafices with an axle flip, and is there an easy alternative in the front besides the new arms and all the fab work. I did most of the work on my truck myself but im not quite brave enough to start grindin and weldin on her.

Here's a good deal on a set of Chevy shackles.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7981021546&category=33586&sspagename=WDVW

An axle flip will net you 5" or so of drop.

These guys http://www.coilsprings.comcan make a set front drop springs to order for about $150.00 delivered. You tell them the application (model) and how much drop you want and they'll make them in 3-5 days.

Well, I still have the vibration in the cab floor.All else is good, but the vibration is getting to be a big concern.  Been to 5 shops in 2 days.  Each garage had a different story as to the vibration.  Then today I found out the the drive shaft is about
1 1/2" further out of the transmission than before the truck was lowered.  Going to a transmission shop tomorrow since they just rebuilt the trans about 2 mos. ago.  Hopefully I will be able to find something out there.  Seems that I may need to get my drive shaft lengthened.  I'll keep you posted.

today a shop that builds street rods and muscle cars looked at my pinion angle and said that i need 3 to 5 degrees total.  I measured with a home depot magnetic protractor and looks to me as 2 1/2 degrees.  The shop used a digital and measured almost 7 degrees.  don't know what is correct but putting the $ on the shop instead of mine.  maybe i measured it incorrectly.  well, i just started taking the rear apart AGAIN.  Going to try and put a leaf back in and see if that helps.  Has anyone else had these many problems when lowering?  i went 3 inches all around.   

When I tore mine down, I kept the overload spring (the one that does not contact at the end at all times) and removed the next two shortest, keeping the two longest. 

Dunno, I have not finished the truck and the bed is not on it yet.  Heck I haven't even started on the motor!!  I know I will have to use pinion angle shims, I have an axle out of a 1970 truck that I welded the mounts to.  I know things will be off...

Kane, will it move oddly having 4 shackles?  I don't know, why I'm asking.  I do know that I put the leaves back together.  I just couldn't stand the vibration and noise.  Now the rear is only a 2" drop, no noise orrattles, but still has a vibration at 20-25 mph.  Used a 2 degree shim, going to change to a 3 degree tomorrow.  I measured my pinion angle and got 4 degrees.  This is supposed to be good, but I still have a vibration.  A street rod shop measured it before when 2 leaves were removed and it was almost 7.  I'll let you know what happens after a shim change. 

ok now how do you get pictures on here?

havent been on in a few months but noticed this on page 5 or something....any new info on anybodys rigs?

For sale it's for sale. Had a baby needs finished going cheap.
swwaltw@hotmail.com

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/225379