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Topic: My '78 RC - Swamp Donkey (slow build)  (Read 11385 times)
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« Reply #50 on: March 4, 2010, 04:33:43 AM »

That's a lot of spring you have there. What was the listing for again? Are you going to move the hangers rearward to center the axle up some?
Your RC is going to be HUGE!!!  Agree Agree
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« Reply #51 on: March 4, 2010, 08:28:02 AM »

I'm going to try and leave them where they're at, just for simplicity.  If it does need to be moved, I'll probably use a tapered zero-rate.  I'm pretty sure I'm going to need some angle put in to both axles.  The springs (at least one set, not sure on the other) are Rough Country Chevy 1-ton (56" long) springs with 4" of lift.
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« Reply #52 on: March 4, 2010, 05:18:05 PM »

Sounds like the same rear springs as the ones I put in the rear of my 440 RC. It just looked like a lot of arch in them.
Jim
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« Reply #53 on: March 4, 2010, 05:23:19 PM »

Sounds like the same rear springs as the ones I put in the rear of my 440 RC. It just looked like a lot of arch in them.
Jim
Could be because there's no weight on them?  I'll have weight on them by the end of the week.  I just got my parts in the mail.  I was just waiting on a couple of things to get going again.
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« Reply #54 on: March 6, 2010, 03:00:49 PM »

Rear done, despite the looks, the whole truck is on it's own weight.  The jack stands aren't touching it.

I got my parts in and was able to put everything together.  Except for a couple of support brackets I need to put on for the lowered hangars.  I had to lower and forward the shackle hangar the same amount as the front hangar.  I have a pretty good pinion angle from eyeballing it.  I think the stock drive-shaft may even work with a conversion joint.  I haven't looking in to that at all, so that's uneducated speculation.  I might end up putting in a zero-rate to move the axle backwards some, right now it's about 2" forward.  

Now, I have to get back to the front and redo those hangars.  I need to make the front spring hangars 6" forward and I'm going to drop the brackets another 1".  I haven't decided if I'm going to keep the springs with the long sides towards the back.  With the hangars 6" forward and the springs long-side forward, the axle would almost be centered.  I'm wanting the axle to stay at least 2" forward though.  So, my two options have been to long-side rear the springs with a zero-rate 1" back (axle 3" forward) or to long-side front the springs with the zero-rate 1.5" forward (axle 1.5" forward).  I'm leaning towards the 3" forward option.

Thoughts at this point?  As it sits right now, the front end is just a hair lower than the rear.  After I get the front end redone and a zero-rate installed, it should either level or just a little higher.  I want it to sit 1-2" higher in the front, that's my goal in the end.  It should leave me around 14" lift in the front and 12" in the rear (13" if I zero-rate it too).
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« Reply #55 on: March 7, 2010, 09:16:27 AM »

Lookin Good!
That looks like a good angle on the rear shackle too.
Looking forward to what kind of bracing you do for the mounts.
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« Reply #56 on: March 7, 2010, 09:32:38 AM »

Lookin Good!
That looks like a good angle on the rear shackle too.
Looking forward to what kind of bracing you do for the mounts.
It's still settling some more, I think the angle is going to end up close to 45*.  When I installed the shackle hangars, they were straight up from leaf eyes.

I'm going to use some 1/4" angle with gussets.  I'll have pictures of those when I get to the steel supplier.
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« Reply #57 on: March 7, 2010, 05:54:08 PM »

did you ever get a dana 60? remember the mounting pads on a 60 are about 1" taller than on a dana 44.
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« Reply #58 on: March 7, 2010, 06:12:31 PM »

did you ever get a dana 60? remember the mounting pads on a 60 are about 1" taller than on a dana 44.
I haven't yet, still looking around for one within a reasonable distance and not priced insane.
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« Reply #59 on: March 7, 2010, 06:38:46 PM »


I had this idea for the front fender.  The front axle is going to end up 3-4" forward, so I want to do something with the fender.  I don't want to just chop a chunk out of it at an angle.  I used to do body work and I think I seen this on a TV project (Powerblock - Xtreme4x4?).  Essentially, it's cutting the bottom front of the fender off right above the turn signal.  Then, cutting the fender up about 3" in the middle of the wheel well.  Take that cut forward until it's about 3" forward of the front of wheel well.  Take about (hopefully) 6-8" of fender and move that section forward.  I'll fill in the gap with some sheet metal.
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« Reply #60 on: March 8, 2010, 06:47:37 AM »

Nice job!!!
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« Reply #61 on: March 8, 2010, 07:45:08 AM »

looks like a stretched wheel opening.
looks good.
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« Reply #62 on: March 8, 2010, 10:11:19 AM »

looks like a stretched wheel opening.
looks good.
Yep, that's what it's supposed to be.  That's just something I did up in Paint.  Now, I have to go out and make it turn out that good on the truck. Grin
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« Reply #63 on: March 8, 2010, 12:00:51 PM »

you might want to consider getting a couple of wheel opening repair panels to work with unless you have the tools to match it up with sheetmetal.  you'll have to section the fender up into the flat part above the upper lip and move it forward.  with the repair panel you just match the cut line and fill it in. 
are you going to step flange everything or butt weld?
i got a couple of the repair panels from JCW a few years back and they weren't too $$ from what I remember.
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« Reply #64 on: March 8, 2010, 02:56:24 PM »

you might want to consider getting a couple of wheel opening repair panels to work with unless you have the tools to match it up with sheetmetal.  you'll have to section the fender up into the flat part above the upper lip and move it forward.  with the repair panel you just match the cut line and fill it in. 
are you going to step flange everything or butt weld?
i got a couple of the repair panels from JCW a few years back and they weren't too $$ from what I remember.
I was going to get a couple of extra fenders and start with those.  I'd like to have a good set of fenders to put aside and the ones I have now are almost perfect.  I'll check out the repair panels and see if they have what I'm looking for.  Thanks for the tip.
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« Reply #65 on: March 8, 2010, 07:35:49 PM »

I got the steering box off today.  While I'm waiting to get the steel to redo the front hangars, I figured I'd work on the steering.  I already have the u-joints junkyard Chrysler K-cars and a Jeep steering shaft to do the u-joint modification.  I wasn't sure what I was going to do about a brace though.  I seen someone here use the factory bracket, so I went with that.  Here's what I got pictures of...

Initial markings on where to cut:


After cutting, before I got it cleaned up:


I got started on modifying the Jeep shaft and I got the 4WD bracket and steering box cleaned up and painted.  I didn't get pictures of those because it was too dark to get decent pictures.  Those are coming tomorrow.
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« Reply #66 on: March 9, 2010, 03:55:51 PM »

Here's the bracket after I cleaned up the edges and painted it.


I also got my new steering shaft made.  It's made per the How-To with K-car steering column joints and a Jeep shaft.


I also got the steel picked up for my new front spring brackets.  Once I get the new ones made, I'll sell the old ones.  Steel was surprisingly cheap for what I was quoted.  The difference between the website prices and actual prices at the shop was 33% cheaper.  I spent a ton of time making sure everything for the steering shaft was good to go.
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« Reply #67 on: March 10, 2010, 09:27:16 PM »

Here's the new front hangar.  It's a big drop and I might make it less, but I'm going to try this for now.  From the top of the new mount to the bolt eyes is 8.5" down.  I think that makes it about a 7" drop?


Here's the new steering shaft painted up and installed as well.
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« Reply #68 on: March 11, 2010, 02:12:47 PM »

steering shaft looks sweet!

i don't think that hanger set-up looks strong enough! Grin
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« Reply #69 on: March 11, 2010, 02:40:15 PM »

steering shaft looks sweet!

i don't think that hanger set-up looks strong enough! Grin

I actually think it needs a little more, mostly inside of the 6x6 tubing.  I'll see though once I get some weight on it.  I'm waiting until it gets welded up though.  I don't have a strong enough welder, just enough to tack it together here.

I was really pleased with how the steering shaft worked out.  I'll be working on hydro-assist after I get the truck moving under it's own power.  This should firm up the steering very nicely though.
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« Reply #70 on: March 12, 2010, 08:48:19 AM »

Cant wait to see this thing on wheels!

I think if you reinforce the square tubing a bit it should be fine.
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« Reply #71 on: March 12, 2010, 10:28:36 AM »

steering shaft looks sweet!

i don't think that hanger set-up looks strong enough! Grin


for the record, i was being sarcastic about your hanger setup, it looks plenty beefy to me.
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« Reply #72 on: March 14, 2010, 08:01:46 PM »

Cant wait to see this thing on wheels!

I think if you reinforce the square tubing a bit it should be fine.

I've been giving it some thought, but it should be fine for now.

I just got my flat top (un-machined) knuckle in the mail.  I'm sending it out tomorrow to JNutter to be machined.  Then I'll be started on the cross-over steering.
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« Reply #73 on: March 19, 2010, 10:05:21 PM »

I got a few more things done, but no new pictures yet.  I got the exhaust put back in, rehung the hitch, started running brake lines and got two of the braces for the rear suspension done.

I've been busy working on my deuce and a half and the family mini-van.  I had to replace the relay for the starter system on my Deuce.  I through a Ford fender mounted solenoid in it for now, until I can afford the $90 for a real replacement.  The minivan needed an entire face lift after it kissed a concrete light pole base.  The power steering went out at low speed, hit the concrete base square on.  It messed up the bumper cover, rad support, hood, fans, shroud, air cleaner and headlights.  The radiator was fine, but the mounting tabs were broken off of it.  It cost me $180 from the pull-a-part yard for everything.
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« Reply #74 on: March 19, 2010, 11:51:53 PM »

nothing like suprise projects, huh?
i know the feeling.
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« Reply #75 on: March 20, 2010, 08:24:32 AM »

nothing like suprise projects, huh?
i know the feeling.
When it rains, it pours.  Once the mini-van knocked me off track on the RC, that's when I decided to do the Deuce too.  I was getting tired of it not moving too.  After the weekend, things should be back on track.

On the RC, the new front spring hangar is perfect.  I have about a 30* shackle angle now and the front end is just maybe an inch higher than the rear.  Once I get my flat-top knuckle installed, the wheels and tires are going on.
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« Reply #76 on: March 22, 2010, 03:52:51 PM »

I'm looking forward to seeing this beast with rollers on it.  Looks good so far.
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« Reply #77 on: March 22, 2010, 08:20:51 PM »

I got my flat top knuckle in from John Nutter today and get it installed with my crossover arm.  I'm going to get the tie rod fabbed up then rollers are going on the front.  Still waiting on my zero-rates before I install the rear tires.
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« Reply #78 on: March 23, 2010, 04:11:38 PM »

Some new work I got done the past couple of days...

New ball joints installed as well as everything cleaned up and painted.


The tubing is 1.5" diameter DOM with 1/4" wall and the ends are 3/4" heim joints.  It should fit above the arms just fine once I get the degree shims put in.  There should be a strong 1" of clearance, is that enough?
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« Reply #79 on: March 28, 2010, 10:56:50 PM »

before you spend more money on the 44, you should really consider a 60.

nice build though.
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« Reply #80 on: March 29, 2010, 06:26:29 AM »

before you spend more money on the 44, you should really consider a 60.

nice build though.
I'm not putting a ton of money into my 44.  Basically, just enough to get it to work with my setup.  The X-over steering and some new ball joints is it.  Otherwise, I'm working on a 609 hybrid front since I have the 9" parts already.
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« Reply #81 on: March 29, 2010, 08:25:46 AM »

Whats a 609?
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« Reply #82 on: March 29, 2010, 08:29:07 AM »

Whats a 609?
Ford 9" center section (35 spline) with Dana 60 outers.  I want to build it so I can use off the shelf 60 axles.  It won't be any time soon though, probably next year with all of the time away from home I have coming up.
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« Reply #83 on: March 29, 2010, 10:03:25 AM »

That's kinda what I was thinking but didn't know. Why are you going to go that way?
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« Reply #84 on: March 29, 2010, 11:19:59 AM »

That's kinda what I was thinking but didn't know. Why are you going to go that way?
I can all of the fabrication work myself.  I figure that I'll have about $2000 total in it and it'll be VERY built.  Around here, I can't get a stock Dana 60 for less than $800-$1000 normally.  If I want one that has 4.56 gears, it's $1200 at the least.  That's with everything stock as well, my 609 built will have all aftermarket parts.  Plus, I can put the 609 together piece by piece instead of having to front up a bunch of cash for a Dana 60.
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1979 Dodge Ramcharger - 318 / 4-speed
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« Reply #85 on: March 29, 2010, 12:29:45 PM »

Sounds like a good Plan!!!!
Jim
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1988 RC.the gold one   pics
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if it ain't worth rebuilding it can't be a mopar


« Reply #86 on: April 1, 2010, 09:26:28 PM »

i know what you mean on the cost of a dana 60. i ended up buying a whole rc for a 60f. now i have my next project (Sopwith Camel B model)after i have the springs in A3 figured out .
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89 rc 318 carbed 727trans 241tc 77 d60f welded /d60r open 36x12.5x16.5 goodyear mt under construction
91 w150 318fi 518 trans 241 tc 44 4.56 truetrac 91/4 4.56 aubrun ls 5.5superlift 3" body lift 35" bfg mt's
88 rc future project
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« Reply #87 on: April 1, 2010, 09:31:28 PM »

i know what you mean on the cost of a dana 60. i ended up buying a whole rc for a 60f. now i have my next project (Sopwith Camel B model)after i have the springs in A3 figured out .
If a good deal comes my way, I'll pick up a Dana 60.  Otherwise, I'm going to piece together my 609.
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« Reply #88 on: April 2, 2010, 05:00:21 PM »

I got some progress done today.  All I really did was manage to get the wheels/tires on Swamp Donkey today.  In the next week or two, I should be ordering the pitman arm, brake lines and rear drive-shaft parts.

Down on all fours again...


Even with brand new springs, has the Dodge lean...


The tires don't stick out nearly as far as I thought they would.  It turned out just how I wanted it.  My 3 year old likes it because she's as big as the tires are...
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1979 Dodge Ramcharger - 318 / 4-speed
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« Reply #89 on: April 2, 2010, 08:06:24 PM »

looks great!
that thing is a beast! Agree
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"Judge" '87 W150 Shortbox - 360 Mag w/GM TBI, TCI 727, NP208, 1-ton D60's, 37"MTR's on H1's,4" lift, X-Over Steering, "Birdbath" Hood, 12k Hyd. Winch, Stretched Fenders
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« Reply #90 on: April 2, 2010, 09:02:02 PM »

If I could do it all over again, I'd take out a couple of inches.  Instead, I'm just going to keep what I have and step up to 44's.
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Is that a Ford under your tire?


« Reply #91 on: April 2, 2010, 09:37:39 PM »

AWESOME!   That's a fast build in my book. 
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« Reply #92 on: April 3, 2010, 12:04:15 AM »

AWESOME!   That's a fast build in my book. 
For me, it seems like it's going slow.  I have bursts of building on the truck.  I either need to gather some parts or gather the time to do it.
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« Reply #93 on: April 3, 2010, 06:47:03 AM »

Looks like it turned out good!!! I bet it feels great to get it back to this point. What size tires are you running now?
jim
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1988 RC.the gold one   pics
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« Reply #94 on: April 3, 2010, 07:15:49 AM »

Looks like the roof is even with the roof on the Duece.  Way to make your big truck look little (or your little truck be big).  Looks great!
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« Reply #95 on: April 3, 2010, 07:34:06 AM »

I got some progress done today.  All I really did was manage to get the wheels/tires on Swamp Donkey today.  In the next week or two, I should be ordering the pitman arm, brake lines and rear drive-shaft parts.

Down on all fours again...


Even with brand new springs, has the Dodge lean...


The tires don't stick out nearly as far as I thought they would.  It turned out just how I wanted it.  My 3 year old likes it because she's as big as the tires are...



so your saying that these old dodges do lean and its not just my truck?
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My truck: 1984 dodge 1/2 ton 4x4,360,435,203, d44 and 9 1/4(PARTS TRUCK)NEW truck-1985 dodge w250 4x4,318,np435,208,d44,d60,all stock with fresh paint and 33's.I do the 3 pedal shuffle everyday.
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« Reply #96 on: April 3, 2010, 09:52:37 AM »

The driver side is between 1/2" and 1" lower than the passenger side.  I'm going to use an old overload spring, cut down to size, and bolt it in to the driver side spring pack.  I'll probably use a 3/4" thick piece.

The Deuce still has a little height on the RC.  It's kind of an optical illusion with the RC being closer to me than the Deuce in the picture.

Right now, it's on 40" Ground Hawgs.  I'm looking for some 44's in the area though.  The closest I've been able to find right now is up near Youngstown, OH.  I'm not too concerned with bigger tires yet.  I want to get it drive-able again first.
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« Reply #97 on: April 3, 2010, 12:29:08 PM »

The truck looks mean. Good job!
Gonna need to carry a step ladder with you.
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« Reply #98 on: April 3, 2010, 06:06:15 PM »

you're going to have some RADICAL driveshaft angles
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"Judge" '87 W150 Shortbox - 360 Mag w/GM TBI, TCI 727, NP208, 1-ton D60's, 37"MTR's on H1's,4" lift, X-Over Steering, "Birdbath" Hood, 12k Hyd. Winch, Stretched Fenders
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« Reply #99 on: April 3, 2010, 08:21:46 PM »

you're going to have some RADICAL driveshaft angles
Roughly 30* out of the transfer case, the axle is about 20 to 25-ish.
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1979 Dodge Ramcharger - 318 / 4-speed
Bone stock on 31's
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