You know Sam, it is alot easier working on that 6bt without fenders in the way.  Look how easy the oil changes will be.
Seriously though. I noticed lots of things that got to be a downright pain when I reinstalled my front clip.  That tilt front sure is sweet!

Oh hell yeah - all day long   The tilt may have been a pain in the arse to do but it sure is nice to have.


Juup - that's one of the 'must-haves'.

Small stuff's is getting done, and hopefully we'll have the rig running Sunday or Monday.  Then, re-bleed the brakes, bolt the steering back up...all the little stuff.  Fluids are in...waiting to see if the doubler will leak or not.

Sam whats with the name change?

Thats Cool, I was a little confused before my morning Coffee!!

Not quite yet, but most of the small stuff is done, and I have 10 gallons of #2 ready to drop in the tank.  And in case I haven't said it lately, NAPA rocks .  The stuff they have in stock, and on the shelf, is impressive. 

Here's the progress.  The last three days I've been full-time on the rig, getting lots of the little stuff done, and so far everything has gone real well.  Here's the run down -

currently: 
 


fuel lines in place (still need clamps), and this is my filter - right where I can see it -



speaking of fuel...it's gotta git in the tank somehow...and the gasser filler tube (left) ain't gonna do it...so...thanks to the donor rig I have it's filler tube (right), did the same mods to it and it's now in place



needed a simple yet effective trans cooler, and after lots of frustrating attempts to buy one with 1/2" lines (for BIG bucks) I decided to modify a regular 3/8" cooler and it worked great, and cost 1/3 the price



Look how small the 3/8" fittings are compared to the tube itself - it's a 1/2" tube with a nice, rounded lip right at the end...(hmmmmm I says to myself.....)

No prob'm - carefully hack off the 3/8 fittings and hog out the holes...



...file the edges, press back the strap on both sides...and presto - instant 1/2" cooler, for $48 bucks at any local parts store.  BTW, is seems all aftermarket coolers come with 1/2" tubes, and tiny 3/8" fittings.  A Cummins comes stock with 1/2" coolers (with 1/2" fittings) - the 3/8" jobies are not able to flow the capacity the Cummins trannys need.



...and installed.  Now all that's left is to install the rubber lines - done.  I'm not sure if I'll need the fan cooler - we'll see after some wheelin'.  Usually only the major hauler rigs need the additional cooler, and those were dealer-installed.



restored the heat exchanger.  Decided to keep it in there because this rig is being built for the chilly weather, and the heat exchanger's job is to warm up the tranny fluid by way of circulating engine coolant through the exchanger which heats up the tranny fluid - very important on a Cummins because the coolers work real well, and in the winter the tranny's have a hard time warming up, and they need to be warmed up before rolling on the coals.



got the water temp gauge plug installed (look close, in the picture it's just behind the pump plugged into the head), and the oil pressure warning light switch (where the factory oil pressure switch was).  Since I'm using the mechanical gauge I could tap this port for my warning light.



turbo and hardware are in, and the heater lines are rerouted so they don't cook.  I'll add the heat shield on the downpipe later.  Really like how the colors look together.





if a turbo sits for a long while don't forget to pre-oil the bearings before starting.  Pull the line, get a cap full of good fresh oil, pour a little in and spin the impeller.  It'll 'free up', and after a cap full of oil is run through it it's good to go for start up soon.



Fuel goes in tomorrow, priming the pump and lines, installing the wiring harness, testing, final fluids...then I think it's ready to fire.  Keep fingers crossed!

- M2

BTW, the "new" hot ticket is LF16035

New improved filter, and not terribly priced @ 11.95/ea

This is for ALL trucks 89-08.

My price for that filter is about 5 bucks.

Hey Max, good tip on the sitting turbo.  Mine's been sitting for a few months, so I'll remember that when I go to fire mine up again.

Even smaller micron filtration, probably.  The HPCR system doesn't like particles as much as the VP; as if any like em. 

If that's the case my oil should definitely remain "clean" once I get around to assembling the hydraulic hose for the amsoil bypass filter kit. They claim up to sub-micron level for the bypass filter.

Thanks for the Oiling Tip on the Turbo there MM, mine hasnt been run since 2001.  Once i get close to firing it up i'll remember to pre-oil it.

I may have missed something since i've never really Bought Diesel Fuel.. But is there a diffrence in the Nozzle Size? that prevents it from being shoved into a Gas Filler Tube?  Because i was hoping on reusing the large gas tank on my W50 Diesel project, but i don't have any Diesel Filler Tubes

I dunno if it makes a diffrence but my W50 doesnt have a Unleaded Only Fuel Restrictor on it? It's an all open design under the Cap (sorta like my Duster)

Very nice!!! Looks great! You must be in "check this, check that and then check 'em again" mode!! Good luck with the first fire up!!!

Andrew

Chet, no problem - be happy to help.  I don't remember if the details for the tranny linkage are in the earlier threads, but the Hurst V-Matic II is IMO the best auto shifter on the market and it's easy to install.  I raised mine about a foot off the floor and made a bracket for it to bolt up to within the console.  Works great

Chris, yeah the diesel pumps have huge nozzles about double the size of the gasoline pumps - I think mainly to allow very high flow rates so it don't take 2 hours to fill the big rig tanks  , but it also means the diesel nozzles won't fit through the gasser inlet tubes.  One could easily hog out the opening to make it big enough for a diesel nozzle

Andy, definitely! 

Good day in the shop:  It's 1:25 am and Keith just left for home after some quality time with me and the wiring harness(s).  We discovered the only required interface between the custom harness he made previously and the diesel engine harness is the neutral safety switch(es) - both need to interact in order for the starter to engage.  We've got good power to every circuit - even the water-in-fuel light momentarily comes on at initial key-turn!  Starter bumps at the key, fuel shutoff circuit has good 12v keyed power, fuel is bleed up to the injectors, so tomorrow, after some sleep, and some final tweaks to the harnesses...and the good Lord willin' and the creek don't rise...we should have a rattlin' Ramcharger in the stable  .   

- M2

they shouldnt be able to buy a diesel!

Thanks for the info Sam, That is the shifter I am going to use. I am going Street Rod with my project, but I see quite a few things that you did that I want to do, such as the center console, interior swap..etc. I will be watching your thread for other mods I liike

rattle rattle rattle rattle rattle rattle

It's official - The Nacho is now 'Cummins-Powered'!!  Rock on baby.

It's alive and seems to be well.  Huge props to my wife Tracy and our good buddy Nate, who helped me both to stay calm and get the beastie up and runnin'.  What a difference from the 452 - really there is no comparison.  Mechanical injection is...awesome.  There were, however, two major issues that...after about 9 hours of trouble-shooting...turned into what amounted to two very minor issues once uncovered. 

First, I couldn't get fuel primed/bled through the system and up to the injectors.  Noticed the lift pump was leaking a bit...but I didn't think it was enough to cause the fuel issue, but it needed to be replaced regardless...so off to NAPA and new pump installed.  Swapped it out, and of course, no change - still tough to bleed the system.  Engine cranked fine but no fuel going to the injectors....and that could have been any number if issues.  After several calls to PDR and talking with Dave (one of their head techs), we isolated the fact that the lift pump could not push fuel through the injection pump or that the IP was either not sending fuel to the injectors - and either way that was badbadbad.  Question was why?  With the key at 'run' we had good power to the FSO (fuel shut off) solenoid.....but...still no fuel.  We cranked and cranked, and the starter got a huge workout.  Then it dawned on me - we never checked to make sure the FSO was getting 12v power during the start cycle. 
Most cars are set up to divert all power to the starter during the start cycle...and so did the Nacho - but - we needed power to the FSO so the injection pump would send fuel during the start cycle.  Doh!  Just some things ya'd never think of until the crap happens.  Well, we got that cured and whamo - it lit right up.  Sweeeet.  But...

The next problem was...it wasn't revving up - wasn't taking throttle input.  It'd idle just fine...but no revs - like it was starving for fuel.  Well crap.  Let's see - there's the gas tank, the fuel lines, the lift pump, the filter assembly, the injection pump, and the injectors - and somewhere in there something's jaaaacked up.  Now I'm thinking when I had the engine blasted that somehow some gunk got wedged inside something somewhere...and I had no idea where to start.  Well.....making a hugely long story short...and after multiple bypasses of every fuel component..and after getting fuel everywhere......it all widdled down....to this -



See the banjo bolt without the holes in it...that was the bolt attaching the lift pump line to the filter assembly, and as a result the engine was starving for fuel and could, apparantly, just get enough to idle - but no more.  I bypassed the lift pump, the filter, and ran the engine straight off the injection pump and it ran great.  I isolated the filter assembly, and I was talking to 'Spoon when I disassembled the hard line to the filter...and noticed....uhh...ummm....(..what the?....how??...shouldn't there be?....) and I thought to myself...'this bolt doesn't have any flow holes in it....'....and sure enough I said to 'Spoon, "Hey...this bolt doesn't have any friggin' holes in it"....and then he and I agreed that whoever reassembled the engine.....(I looked around but I was the only one so I had to blame myself  ) put the wrong bolt in the wrong hole...which makes it dern'd tough to flow any fuel through it  .  Apparantly enough fuel will go around the bolt inbetween the banjo fitting to let the engine idle tho.  Both 'Spoon and T3 (Trevor) checked their 6 and 4BT's for me to verify which banjo bolts are supposed to be where, and sure enough my engine had the wrong one in just the wrong place. 

Live and learn!  So, the Nacho is now an oil-burner, and the starter works great!  It runs and holds good oil pressure and so far nothing is leaking.  We did manage to get digital video of the fire-up and T3 is going to help me get it on line.  Success!!!

And now...time for some zzzZZzzzzzz's.  Doubt the rig will make the car show - too much to get finished.  But that's okay because my goal was to get the rig running, and that mission is accomplished.  We're still going to the show, but we're gonna take the Demon instead .  From tomorrow-on tho, prepping for Moab baby

- M2

Awesome Sam!

  How about Sunday?  Come down for the show and we can chit-chat     

- S

you know it's funny - even in light of all the work we've done to this rig we are really psyched and pleased with how it has ultimately turned out.  If it runs and acts even half as well as I expect it will I'm 100% happy with it.  I have to admit, I really enjoy the wrenchin' and fabbin' part - for me it's almost theraputic, but, I also totally dig the driving part.  I know lots of folks who just like to build...and others who just like to drive...and others who just enjoy collecting.  Me, I like all three.  I have always been a build-it-the-way-I-want-and-drive-it-the-way-I-want.

Yeah...I'm diggin' it.  Looking forward to driving it - gonna be a lot of fun

Nice!!! Congrats!!! I'm thinking you'll be pretty happy with it now. 

Andrew

Max

 the exhaust looks sweet. it has that hummer H1 look to it, coming out to the wheel opening than dumping straight down! how do you like the magnaflow muffler?

As a fellow anal, detailed oriented person, think its called OCD, thank you for all the pics and great effort to document everything.  I can't speak for anyone else but this build gives me hope that my own CTD conversion is doable.
We salute you, Mad max, our very own Real Man of Genius
So crack open a bud light, oh
Mr. CTD conversion swap specialist!!!

Sorry Ben - didn't get you an answer.  Nope that is the inlet port for the turbo main bearing.  But, in the same pic, look at the exhaust manifold, and just before the turbo collar flange you'll see a small 1/8" plug tapped into the manifold - that's where I'll plug in the pyro.  The general consensus is to tap into the back half of the engine exhaust system, which dumps into the rearward main port on the exhaust manifold where the heat is the hottest . 

- Sam

PS: 1993 - the year of the donor truck   

Batts not charging.  I've tried every combination I can think of or have read about - no joy.  All I get is a measly 11.89 +/- volts at the alternator - same as what the batts read alone.  My other '93 has a steady 14.1 volts.

Tried with dual-feed isolator connected and disconnected - (alternator wired direct to the battery).  No difference.

Here's what I tried on the alternator:  Field wires - wired 'straight-up' using the computer ('stock') - no joy.  Then, bypassed using a voltage regulator - no joy (that was when I knew something was seriously jacked up...).....'cause that shoulda worked.  Swapped wires both ways.  Tried no wires.  Tried new alternator.  No joy in any combination.

Rats.  Either I'm missing something so simple...or both alternators are bad, or.............hell....both me and Keith are bingo ideas.  Help??!!

- S

Start this way:

Use no regulator and no computer.  Check charge wire for continuity and connect to battery.   Connect 1 field terminal to a hot lead.  Connect other field terminal to ground.  If the alternator is working, that will give you full charge - about 15-16 volts.  If it doesn't, you have a bad alternator.

 If the alternator is good, you have to consider a battery bad regulator right out of the box.  It's happened to me and a couple of guys here too.  Also, make sure the regulator is well grounded.

Here's some excellent info on diagnosing a charging system.

http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?topic=86595.0

In case it hasn't been said, make sure your voltage regulator's case is grounded.