Looks AWESOME Sam. Are you going to put a lift into your shop?
Jim

Cr.... Some people have all the luck 
I'd love to have one of those in my truck...

cool - me and dad picked up multiple wiring harness(es) the other day; one complete harness (dash, engine bay, chassis) from an '86 Ram plus a dash harness from a '77, all in good shape and all of which will be used to make Bud's "circa '78" modified harness (essentially a complete '86 harness, but modified under the dash to 'look' and 'work' like a 78 harness, fuse block, etc).  The mid '80s trucks are plentiful and in pretty good condition, plus I can most easily incorporate my favorite 'luxury' item - intermittent wipers .

Also think I secured a front end.  Turns out the electrac locker I picked up is really for a rear D60 - who knew; even my diff guy didn't know - but he's hooking me up by swapping me the locker back for some labor, and we'll work out the upgrades to 35-spline outers and hubs and an ARB, bu-yahh .

Also found out Moser Engineering makes all of their axles on a custom order basis, so my concern about getting replacement axles for my dually rear 70 is moot.  

Progress.  While I'm busting hump on Paddy's Wagon, progress on Bud continues.  I talked to PSC at length about my needs (ram-assist + hydroboost + 38" tires + 6bt Cummins + 7500 lb truck...) and we've got a healthy system designed that'll get 'r done.  I'll be doing a big remote reservoir with filter, big cooler, big 1.75"x8" ram, and they're custom building the pump to work directly with the 6BT....but I think I have another idea for a pump, something to do with an air compressor .  

Next summer should be a blast .

certainly could be - I've no doubts.  It is remarkable how similar the 6bt Cummins is to this little Mistubishi

The Mitsu is rare... that's what makes it so interesting to me.
Using such rare stuff has some glory to it.

There's parts for the 6DR5 (that's its name) around, making it usable i think:
http://www.engnetglobal.com/images/enhanced/productdetail/PAR017_mitsubishi.aspx
(search for 6DR5)


Would you sell me both? 

  - not raggin' at all - I just think these little diesels are cool


...so as I'm searching for X-mas presents for Bud I came across these goodies for a Dana 60 -

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/products.php?product=GM%7B47%7DDodge-Dana-60-35-Spline-Upgrade-Kit-w%7B47%7D-Locking-Hubs

I've got a line on a dually front 60 and I'll need to convert to srw, and one of the decisions I need to make is which vintage of outer hub assembly should I aim for - Dodge or Chevy?  I'm leaning towards Chevy units for two reasons; 1st is brakes - I think the Chevy rotors are thicker than Dodge and I'm betting calipers are easier to find, and second is the Chevy units have 9/16 lugs verse the 1/2 Dodge lugs. 

Anyone have insight into 4wd Factory and/or feedback on the hardware?  The 35-spline conversion is a given - question is who best to get the kit from??

Follow-on question is I'm also looking at these hubs, same mfg -

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/products.php?product=GM%7B47%7DDodge-Dana-60-Wheel-Hubs-with-Rotors-%28PAIR%29

Prices looks pretty good considering what is included.  Assuming new rotors are about $100 each, plus the 16 studs to convert to 9/16, I'm in for about $240 as-is, thus making the Chevy hubs about $260 for the pair - that ain't bad for hubs period, and with the long-term benefits that is not a bad way to go.

Any advice regarding this company, the 35-spline conversion kit, and the GM hubs is greatly appreciated.

- Sam

That's "Elwenil" if i'm not mistaken  


@Sam:
If you're ever thinking of getting rid of them: Remember me!

Wait a dually front 60? Does that mean a front Dana 60 with four wheels or a Dana 60 from the front of a dually?

Front axle checks out good, should be just the ticket



to convert from dually (dual rear wheel - 'DRW') to non-dually (single rear wheel - 'SRW') I need to remove the dually outter hub/rotor assembly, and replace with a non-dually hub assy, and in this pic is the Chevy hub/rotor assy I'll be using, brand new in a box from Chevy -



These Chevy rotors are the thickest I've ever seen.  The Dodge axle won't care what brand of hub is bolted to it - both Chevy and Dodge swap.  What's nice is the Chevy hub uses the same caliper bracket as the Dodge (same pn#), but I'll need the Chevy calipers because they're about 1/2" wider than the Dodge calipers to make up for the super thick Chevy rotors - should make for great stopping power for this big heavy rig



compared to the Dodge rotors, and even though the Dodge ones are used there's about 1/4" difference between the two - pretty big difference



...and after boxing the frame with this 3/16" steel...the frame should be good to go -

no joke!  I'm building my very own all-Dodge junk yard .  I'll actually 'start' the build once Paddy's Wagon is out of the shop - that is my priority right now, and that dude is within a month of firing back up and shortly after it should be rolling on its own.  We're gettin' reaaaal antsy to see how Pat's 408 does in this little rig .

Hoping to start wrenchin' and weldin' on Bud for real sometime mid-Sept - maybe that'll be my b-day present to myself . 

And ya Bud is getting Red's old 6bt, and the 47rh, doubler, D60f D70r, 4.56's and 38's.  Should be a really fun truck

 

That sounds AWESOME on the seats. It's also a nice tribute to some great menageries you had with your Dad. Hows Paddy's Wagon coming? I haven't seen any updates on his thread.
Jim

cool.  Lots of small stuff going on with Bud (behind the scenes) - 

In the mail I've got (what I think is) the proper khaki tan canvas (not the mustard yellow ) for the seats coming, got a new black Sheller repro M-38 Jeep steering wheel coming , got a section of an actual '52 M-38 steering column shaft coming (the top 5 inches of it, so I can fab up an adaptor to bolt it to a Borgeson column), and some major surgery planned for the front diff  - I think I've figured out how to 'adjust' the inner C's and 'modify' the p-side spring perch on the front D60 so I can rotate the pinion up and maintain good caster, and I talked with my local Drive Line Service on how to modify Nacho's 1-ton driveshafts so the front and rear can be 'interchangable' , and pretty soon I'll have the 'hardware' for my on-board air.


Ya know...we need a series of little emoticons doing car 'maintenance' - with a smiley face turning a wrench, spraying paint, chopping with a hacksaw, using a measuring tape....

Thanks Jim!
ya we're going to rotate the C's back - actually I'll need to rotate the pinion up, and that means rotating the C's back.  Won't know the final angle until the leafs are under the frame and the axle is under the leafs...so I got a while before it get's busy.  How the front leafs get mounted will be the most important part because that will dictate how I'll need to rework the diff. 

Part of my overall 'plan' is to have identical front and rear d-shafts.  The rear will be a 2-piece shaft, but having both front and rear interchangable give the obvious redundancy benefit.  The rear will have a short intermediate shaft supported with a carrier bearing with a CV-style output so the shaft can bolt up to it same as if it were coming out of the t-case. 

I'm reusing Nacho's shafts and both already had the 1-ton 1350 series double cardon joints coming from the t-case.  The front D60 will get an upgrade to a 1410 input yoke (to match the rear D70) and the front shaft will get the same 1410 upgrade to the slip yoke and u-joint.  The rear will get a longer tube to match the front.  Simple.

Because of my longer wheelbase, lift, and the expected suspension drop-a-bility, I'm rotating the pinion for both the front and rear diff's upward a bit, and the DC joints will allow me to aim the diffs nearly straight at the t-case.  Plus, doing this will give me more of the available slip yoke spline to use without (hopefully) having to upgrade to the long spline slip shafts.  Hopefully, under full drop (like if I 'wave' a front or rear wheel) I won't pull the d-shafts apart.

Nacho showed me how much angle I can get away with for rotating a pinion, and I'll likely do about the same to both ends.  The biggest 'unknown' part of the rotating the front is the p-side spring perch, and I've been talking with Ray about how best to do that and he has some great ways to make all that 'happy'.

So ultimately, if I pretzel a shaft I'll already have a 'spare' to get me home.  Fortunately the shafts I have (built by my local Drive Line Sevice for Nacho) are the same as what Hi Angle Driveline and the other great shops do only these guys are local.  And since I do have some wheelbase to take advantage of my shafts will actually be pretty decent length, which gives me a bit of an angle advantage coming out of the t-case.  When it's all done I'll have the limiting straps back under there to make sure the t-case (and tranny) don't crack in half trying to hold up the front or rear end.

 

umm yeah, Bud is definitely going to be an "air force" truck, in other words...a truck with lots of forceful air .

After incorporating many ideas from other great project trucks, huge amounts of research, and lots of tech talk, below is my answer to 'on-board air' - Bendix TF750 compressor:  16.5 cfm/120 psi @ 1250 rpm.  This aughta do it.  

This is a compressor used on things like school buses, frito delivery trucks, medium-duty chassis trucks with a 6BT Cummins and...air brakes.  I got the idea from JensenKennels' rig.  After talking with the folks at both Haldex and Bendix I discovered the Bendix TF750 twin unit is actually less spendy than the single piston unit.  Lots of 4BT guys use the single because of space.

Initial mock-up fits great, and I'll work linkage, etc around the compressor, along with a mongo support bracket to hold it in place and keep from cracking the back side of the timing case.  With the engine running I should be able to air up all four of my 38" tires real quick like, plus this should make an excellent source for air tools on the trail.  A big air tank will be stuffed under the truck's chassis, likely where the pick-up fuel tank would normally be.

















The head unit plumbs into the coolant system and the main case is 'fed' by the engine oiling system.  It'll maintain the psi of my choosing based on the bolt-on governor, likely around 140 psi, no sweat, and will automatically open the valve to fill the tank and close.  It of course runs continuously but won't be pumping continuously.

A 'de-tuned' Vickers 10NF industrial series power steering pump bolts right to the back of it, and that will solve any/all power steering pump needs.

Progress...  

You should send these pics to Dodge and say "How DARE you call your trucks Heavy Duty! Look at THESE shenanigans!"

that is awsome Sam. love it. 

That should be one AWESOME Hydraulic system!! You did your home work on this one. & here's a + one for ya.
Jim

        .........and some cast iron grey and some flat black mixed in to give the engine some "diversity" 

Ah, of course you are selling the axles I want and the tires I want, all on the wrong side of the country. And while I have no cash (or a rig to put said axles and tires underneath)

It's rough being young and poor...

And Happy Birthday, by the way!

Sam,
HAPPY Birthday!!!!!!!
May it be a wonderful day!!!
Jim

thanks man . 

I've been really impressed with PSC's 'system' knowledge.  I'd call them and ask them about your particular pump, and what can be done to improve its performance, and/or upgrading the pump itself to something suited to your needs.  Hydroboost soaks up a lot.

Happy Belated Birthday Sam!!!! Sorry I didn't catch it in time, but in my defense I didn't get on the computer at all yesterday and only updated my thread from my phone the day Saturday... So see I have an excuse 

That air pump looks huge! I have a belt drive factory a/c compressor from the 70's Dodge trucks its a big V twin unit, still pondering how it could be used on a 6BT as an on board air compressor. I have a guy I think could fix it up with a serpentine pulley, just don't know where it could be mounted...

it's just gonna be a simple off-the-shelf throttle cable - I think I've seem them at the local 4wd shops, probably for Jeeps.  A lot of stuff for Bud is being sourced from 'Jeeps'.  Hell Bud is gonna BE a big Jeep 

I'm looking at installing another factory Cummins alternator where the factory A/C compressor would normally be and using it exclusively for powering an inverter for running a 110 welder on flux.  Trail repairs ya know...

Sam see if you can find a 97 + E/F 350 ambulance package truck

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