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Topic: Tow Bar attachment to 88 Ram W100  (Read 1964 times)
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Cruzer
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« on: December 2, 2005, 10:48:35 AM »

Hello all,

  I need to fabricate a secure attachment point for a tow bar on the front of the Ram.  I bought a stout tow bar and it has all the pins and plates to attach to a flat bumper.  I have a very straight unbent or damaged front bumper on the truck that I do not want to mangle, and I would not trust towing it by the bumper anyway.  I am going to take the bumper off and fabricate an attachment point using the bumper bracket holes in the frame.  I am not an expert fabricator but do okay.  My biggest problem (if it is a problem) is that I over kill everything and always go much bigger and heavier than needed.  I know some of you have towed your ram but use a custom front bumper.  I do not want to build an entire bumper at this point.  Any ideas or info would be great.  I would use a trailer but I do not have one and the weight of the truck on a trailer would be asking alot of the tow vehicle.  Thanks.

Rob,
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« Reply #1 on: December 4, 2005, 10:58:57 AM »

Rob - been to this movie and I got you covered  Wink.

Let me know if you can view this link - if not I'll post the pics separately for the tow bar jig I built for exactly this purpose.
If you can view this link check out pages 6 and 8 - good pics and exactly what you are looking for.  Scroll down to the replies from SamsRams (that's me, tho I go by 'Max').

- Max

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114511&page=6&pp=15&highlight=towbar
« Last Edit: December 4, 2005, 11:07:23 AM by Mad Max » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: December 4, 2005, 03:01:07 PM »

Thank you for the link Max.  That is pretty much what I am thinking of doing.  Was looking at it yesterday and was/am thinking about just mounting the tow bar attachment points on the most forward crossmember.  I do not know, looking at it do not know if it would be strong enough, think it is 1/8" pressed channel riveted to the frame.  You obviously did not think it would be strong enough and built the jig.  Will probably build a jig like yours to be safe I think.

Rob,
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« Reply #3 on: December 4, 2005, 03:12:03 PM »

Thank you for the link Max. That is pretty much what I am thinking of doing. Was looking at it yesterday and was/am thinking about just mounting the tow bar attachment points on the most forward crossmember. I do not know, looking at it do not know if it would be strong enough, think it is 1/8" pressed channel riveted to the frame. You obviously did not think it would be strong enough and built the jig. Will probably build a jig like yours to be safe I think.

Rob,
Thats not a good idea, you want the pull  on the brackets to be pulling straight with the bolts (bracket point straight forward, not downward). I tried  a short tow across town, by using the holes on the bottom flange of the frame, within a mile or two the brackets bent the flange. I've towed many vehicles by bolting to the bumper, through the bumper brackets. without any problems. if you don't have an old bumper to use, you could fabricate a bracket similar to MadMax's, by using the stock bumper brackets, and bolting a piece of 2" or so angle iron across the bumper mounting holes.
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« Reply #4 on: December 4, 2005, 03:20:51 PM »

Thanks superburban,

  I understand what you are saying, but maybe I was not clear.  The brackets for the Tow Bar would mounted correctly facing the correct way, just not sure if the crossmember is strong enough.  In the pictures Max provided you can see the crossmember I am talking about directly behind the jig that he built.  I can take a pic but will have to figure a way to post them on here.

Rob,
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« Reply #5 on: December 4, 2005, 03:35:25 PM »

Thanks superburban,

 I understand what you are saying, but maybe I was not clear. The brackets for the Tow Bar would mounted correctly facing the correct way, just not sure if the crossmember is strong enough. In the pictures Max provided you can see the crossmember I am talking about directly behind the jig that he built. I can take a pic but will have to figure a way to post them on here.

Rob,
OK, I was thinking that you were going to use the existing holes on the flange of that crossmember.  your idea should be OK (the military M880 towbar brackets bolted on the front and back flanges of that crossmember).  But to be extra safe, I would put a piece of flat steel across the backside of the crossmember, where you drill the holes (will distribute the force, and prevent the brackets from twisting)
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« Reply #6 on: December 4, 2005, 04:02:34 PM »

Yep was thinking of placing a backing plate to spread the force across the crossmember.  Thanks for the thoughts and info.

Rob,
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« Reply #7 on: December 4, 2005, 04:07:30 PM »

You know, I was reading the owners manual to verify how to properly tow the truck.  It says that I have to remove both driveshafts to ground tow it.  I do not mind taking out the back one if needed but hate to take both out.  It is nice to be able to move the truck on its own if needed.  I read on here that you could flat tow with the Xfer case in nuetral and the trans in park.  What do you guys normally do?  I will be towing this thing around 2,000 miles.

Rob,
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« Reply #8 on: December 4, 2005, 04:33:42 PM »

You know, I was reading the owners manual to verify how to properly tow the truck.  It says that I have to remove both driveshafts to ground tow it.  I do not mind taking out the back one if needed but hate to take both out.  It is nice to be able to move the truck on its own if needed.  I read on here that you could flat tow with the Xfer case in nuetral and the trans in park.  What do you guys normally do?  I will be towing this thing around 2,000 miles.

Rob,
for that kind of a distence, I would remove the front shaft, and unhook the rear at the axle, and Duct tape it real well to the exhaust system. that way if you need to move it, in 5 min you could hookup the rear shaft and move it.

for real short distances, I might just use the transfer case in neutral, but both Chrysler and New Process say it not ok to tow that way.  one of the RV sites has some pictures of what happens when the transfer slips out of neutral while towing, not a pretty thing
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« Reply #9 on: December 4, 2005, 07:17:32 PM »

I agree with pulling the shafts for going that distance.  Just an easy way to ensure nothing happens to the driveline.

The jig I made was built with 2-1/2" square tube, 1/4" plate sides.  The tow bar I bought from the local RV shop was the bigest I could find, and with it I got a pair of the attachment brackets (where the tow bar pins in place to the jig).  Grade 8 bolts all around (1/2" for the bumper mounts, and two mount brackets came with their own). 

I wasn't sure of the bumper would handle the towing stress, and the truck I was towing was a 4-door long bed dually 85 gasser - long and heavy, and my 93 Cummins was towing it.  There was a lot of weight being tugged on, and I didn't trust the bumper. The crossmenber would work but I think it may get tweaked in the process.  I don't think it'd break or bend/rip, but I bet it would try to flex.  If you can fab up a real solid 'hitch' like the one I did, well all I know it that wasn't the weak point  Wink.

- M
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« Reply #10 on: December 4, 2005, 11:39:32 PM »

Thanks again for the great info and thoughts.  I am going to make a jig like Max did to be safe and worry free.  Let you know how it turns out.

Rob,
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