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| Magnum Crate Motor Swap |
| Submitted By: ChrisLib Date: February 10, 2009, 09:38:35 AM Views: 4065 |
Magnum Crate Motor Swap - Chris Liberty (ChrisLib) This how-to will hopefully illustrate the steps needed to take when swapping either a crate motor or a 93 and up Magnum style engine into a truck originally equipped with an LA style smallblock. The Magnum style crate engines might seem a direct bolt in for an earlier truck (or car for that matter), but there are some very distinct differences. I`m going to skip over the general engine R&R stuff as thats pretty straight forward and instead will concentrate on the differences I came across.  Figure 1 It sure LOOKS like a bolt in huh?...YEAH RIGHT! (figure 1)  Figure 2 No going back now! (figure 2)  Figure 3 Figure 3 shows the amount the alternator bracket has to be spaced out in order for the belts to align properly. This is due to a small casting difference on the front of the cylinder heads where the alternator bracket mounts. The single biggest hurdle stems from the fact that the original intake has an offset (towards the drivers side) thermostat housing whereas the crate motor, and most aftermarket aluminum intakes have the housing mounting centered on the intake, see figs 2, 4 and 17 for a better explanation. This puts the t-stat housing in the same place that's occupied by the AC comp and its bracketry. (figure 4)  Figure 4 I decided to cross this bridge by relocating and rotating the compressor as far to the right as possible by only using the two driver`s side mounting lugs relocated to the passenger side bracket holes and using a 90 degree thermostat housing. It`s MOPAR part number P5249191. (figures 5 and 6)   Figures 5 and 6 This created a problem of having to maintain some sort of anti-rotational stability. I braced the comp assembly in two ways. 1. I made a helper bracket (which I will now call the "Chris" bracket) out of a piece of steel shelving angle iron with about 90% of one side of the angle removed. 2. I had to relieve an area for compressor clearance and elongate one of the holes to allow it to line up properly. (figures 7 and    Figures 7 and 8 Then I took the original tube brace and rotated it around to the driver`s side. (figures 9 and 10)  Figure 9  Figure 10 This required some slight rebending and shimming to get it to fit, but it almost seemed as if it were meant to go there. After roughing out the compressor mounting, I turned my attention to routing the heater hose. I used a 90 degree 3/8 brass pipe elbow and a 3/8 pipe thread to 5/8 hose barb fitting wich just BARELY makes it (figures 4 and 11)  Figure 11 BTW, YES I used all NEW heater hose and clamps. Don`t want to be changing any of that stuff any time soon! Its all a tight fit. (figure 12)  Figure 12 It is working so far with no problems whatsoever. Figure 13 shows the belt alignment which is dead on.  Figure 13 Fig 14 shows the mocked up assembly just about ready to go in.....  Figure 14 ...BUT one more hurdle. LA style 360`s and Magnum 360`s use a different amount of external balance. Chrysler does this from the factory by using a counter weighted harmonic balancer and torque converter. I crossed this bridge by using a B&M trans flexplate weighted for a 93 and up Magnum 360, figure 15, (ordered thru Mancini Racing, part number BMM10242).  Figure 15 I also had to remove the factory balance weight from the torque converter. I did this by using a carbide cut-off wheel in an angle grinder to remove 90% of the weight and then carefully grinding down the remaining weight and spot welds. (figure 16)  Figure 16 Fig 17 shows the installed motor and the header clearance on the drivers side frame rail. Close but not hitting.  Figure 17 Conclusion: Over all, it was more work than I thought it would be, but the payoff was well worth it. IMHO the 360/300 crate motor makes an excellent motor for a RC. It has plenty of low-end power and it pulls pretty good in the higher rpm ranges although I haven't had it over 3800 rpm's or so....yet. I'll give it a few miles first. All my chivvy and ferd buds usually knock the oddball Dodge, but after a spin in it they seem unusually quiet   Finished Product August 14, 2005, 08:13:36 PM by gmule Comments on Magnum Crate Motor Swap http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?action=howtoshow;id=20 December 3, 2005, 07:12:00 PM by R3dJok3r Just wanted to see if yall cud add what i did in my 318 to mag 360 swap. see if could help anybody out. I have the single plane intake manifold. And the use of a air compressor was not going to happen. This could also work with someone who just does not want to run ac. But anyways, by making custom brackets (which is really alot easier then what it sounds. I might even have the cad file for the brackets somewhere.) i brought the alternator forward and ran it off the same pulleys as the crank, cam and steering pump. That eliminated the need for the ac compressor. And this setup has worked fine for me. You will need two diffrent size belts. one that will run around the alt, crank, cam, and steering pump. And one that will run just around the alt, crank, and cam pulleys. I used the larger of the two on the rear of the two slots on the alt bracket. And the smaller on the front. Use of small washers may be needed to make it just perfect. Just wanted to add this in case it might could help anyone. I will try to get some pics here soon. Shane July 22, 2006, 08:30:19 PM by DamnThing89 yea, I been havin this problem myself if you could send me those pics of the alt bracket layouts if would really help May 31, 2007, 05:33:41 PM by jags6@mac.com Great article! You're the only other one I know who put a 300 HP crate in a Ramcharger. Like you, I had to have the alternator bracket cut and realigned to allow for the different clearance. Instead of moving the A/C compressor toward the passenger side, I moved mine straight up. Belts still cleared and I still use the A/C. Also had to make custom brackets. I never did re-mount the black tubular bracket or the one in back. I still mean to do so (did the swap years ago) because the compressor does need a lot of support to prevent it from vibrating and occasionally spinning a belt (about 3 times in 7 years, always at the worst possible time). One other note - my crate came with a car oil pan. The 318 LA oil pan does not swap to the 360. I had to buy a 360 oil pan for a truck (car version won't clear the K member). Over the years, I've been happy, but ... 1) I've never gotten a good tune to provide good low end response, despite running an MSD box and playing with the jetting several times 2) It's a BEAR to keep that thermostat gasket housing from leaking. Also, the thermostat is hard to identify - at a parts store it's the one from a 1972 Dodge truck with a 360. I hope to keep my truck on the road for a good long time ... Read Entire Thread | Post a Reply |
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